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59  of  '86. 


XjETTEPLS 


WRITTEN     TO 


tttitt: 


DURING  THE  SUMMER  OF 


^««^^W#^ 


BY   ZITELLA. 

■.A/cCj 


LEBANON,  PA. 

WORTH  &  REINOEHL,  PRINTERS. 

1880, 


So 

Whose  interest  in  my  welfare  has  been  unabated  since  earliest 
childhood,  jg  of  '86  is  respectfully  dedicated. 


VI 


PREFACE. 


After  wielding  the  journalistic  pen  sufficiently  long  to 
render  an  abbreviated  account  of  the,  to  us,  59  memorable  days 
of  the  year  1886,  we  cheerfully  abandon  the  same  with  the  hope 
that  it  may  in  the  future  fall  into  more  competent  hands. — 
Literary  fame,  save  but  one  exception,  has  never  been  our  aspi- 
ration. In  years  gone  by,  when  but  nine  summers  were  ours,  a 
childish  romance  with  the  euphonious  (!)  title  of  Kitty  Bundle 
commenced  and  ended  as  we  then  thought  our  literary  work. 
Unexpectedly  59  of  '86  courageously  assumes  a  book  attitude. 
It  comes  to  you  in  the  form  of  a  gift,  hence  treat  its  short- 
comings with  magnanimity. 

Lebanon,  Pa.  T.  McC. 


LETTER     I. 

Sherman  House, 
Corner  Randolph  and  Clark  Streets, 
Chicago,  Illinois.  May  2,  1886. 

Dear  Courier :  From  this  great  commercial  centre,  which  but 
fifteen  years  ago  that  great  fire  fiend  so  completely  claimed  as 
its  victim,  and  which  to-day  shows  not  a  single  trace  of  the 
terrible  devastation,  my  first  letter  to   you   shall   be   written. 

On  the  29th  of  April,  at  an  hour  far  removed  from  the 
original  for  starting,  the  Raymond  excursion  party,  numbering 
in  the  neighborhood  of  one  hundred  persons,  moved  out  from 
the  9th  and  Green  street  station,  Philadelphia,  for  a  trip  across 
the  Continent.  The  exit  was  made  amidst  the  waving  of  hats 
and  handkerchiefs,  and  a  few  stray  tears,  accompanied  by  many 
well  and  hearty  wishes  for  a  safe  and  happy  journey.  The 
sun,  too,  which  had  been  hidden,  shone  out  lustily  for  several 
hours,  setting  aflame  the  soft  bright  sky  of  the  wild  and 
picturesque  Lehigh  Valley,  through  which  we  sped.  iS'umerous 
halts  were  made  until  Glen  Summit  was  reached.  Here  a  supper 
awaited  us.  Well  was  it  for  those  who,  like  3^our  correspondent, 
were  fortunate  enough  to  have  had  a  plentiful  dinner,  for  the 
repast  was  certainly  a  mean  apology  of  the  name  it  bore. — 
Justice,  however,  forces  us  to  say  that  the  beginning  was  the 
worst.  Save  that  exception,  the  meals  have  thus  far  all  come 
up  to  the  standard,  only  ''sea  sickness''  on  board  the  train  over- 
took us  almost  as  badly  as  when  the  Pennsylvania,  of  the  Red 
Star  Line,  rocked  us  across  the  briny  deep;  hence  we  could 
not   partake  as   freely  as  those   who  were    minus  the   attack. 

During  the  interval  at  Glen  Summit,  between  supper  and 
the  hour  tor  retiring,  the  genial  colored  porter,  George  by  name, 
dis[)layed  his  skill  at  metaraorphising.  In  a  very  short  space 
of  time  the  elegant  sitting  room  was  transformed  into  a  dor- 
mitory. By  an  ingenious  system,  berths  are  improvised  in  a 
few  minutes ;  the  beds  are  comfortable,  but  the  heavy  sur- 
roundings make  it  oppressively  close.  Morpheus,  that  wily  fel- 
low, chose  to  wink  at  us,  at  a  disagreeable  distance  that  first 
night,  but  during   the  second    the  tyrant  was   vanquished. 


But  to  return  to  our  journey:  At  midnight  the  train,  with 
its  sleeping  freight,  was  carried  safely  away  from  Glen  Sum- 
mit. As  daylight  broke  upon  us  glimpses  of  the  undulating 
country  were  had.  Before  9  a.  m.  the  transformation  on  the  car 
again  took  place.  The  bed  room  once  more  became  a  parlor, 
and  thus  it  changed  from  one  to  the  other  until,  thanks  to 
ye  gods,  we  were  once  more  privileged  to  occupy  that  amount 
of  space  sanctioned    by   sanitary  laws. 

At  llornellsville,  at  9  a.  m.,  our  first  breakfast  was  had.  The 
first  grand  sight  which  met  our  eye  were  Genesee  Falls. 
Slowly  we  passed  over  the  bridge.  From  this  advantageous 
position  we  looked  down  into  the  depths  below,  longing  for 
only  one-half  hour  to  explore  some  ot  the  beauties  of  this  en- 
chanted spot.  The  season  in  this  part  ot  New  York  is  not 
nearly  as  far  advanced  as  we  left  it  in  the  Lebanon  Valley. 
The  greater  part  of  the  country  looked  bare,  cold  and  uninviting, 
which  served  to  bring  out  as  prominently  as  possible  the 
stump  fences,  those  great  molar  teeth,  as  it  were,  set  on  an 
edge,  so  common  here  and  in  Canada.  Crossing  the  Suspension 
Bridge  over  the  Niagara,  we  found  ourselves  at  Clifton  in 
time  for  dinner,  and  not  for  breakfast,  as  is  stated  in  the 
Itinerary.  The  delay  from  the  start  became  more  disagreeable 
the  farther  on  we  went.  Throuo-h  Canada  we  flew  amidst 
the  falling  drops,  and  fields  covered  with  water.  With  the 
short  seasons  common  here,  the  question  arose  in  our  mind, 
whether  or  not  anything  beyond  the  famous  Canada  thistle 
could   be    raised.     We    pause   for   a  reply. 

Night  came  up)on  as  so  speedily  that  the  most  interesting 
feature  of  the  trip  trom  Philadelphia  to  Chicago  was  a  failure 
for  the  want  ot  daylight,  viz  :  the  crossing  of  the  St.  Clair 
river,  to  Port  Huron,  where  the  train  is  taken  in  three  sections 
across   the  stream   on    a  boat. 

Chicago,  thou  truly  great  city  of  the  West.  What  massive 
houses,  what  adornments  are  thine  !  In  the  morning  of  May 
1st  we  took  a  long  walk  through  the  principal  parts  of  the 
city,  and  in  the  afterno«>n  a  drive  along  the  lake,  through  the 
famous  Lincoln  Park,  out  Wabash  and  Michigan  avenues,  the 
favorite  drives  of  the  city.  On  these  avenues  some  of  the 
finest  residences  in  the  world  may  be  seen.  We  use  this 
term  with  impunity,  for  we  deem  them  an  impossibility  to 
be  surpassed.  W^e  visited  the  water  works,  which  are  consid- 
ered among  the  wonders  of  the  world  :  the  stone  Tower  on 
one   side  of  the  street,  and  the  structure  on  the  other,  in  which 


are  the  four  powerful  engines,  three  being  in  motion  when  we 
were  there,  with  a  wonderful  pumping  capacity  of  millions  of 
gallons  daily,  have  the  appearance  of  two  beautiful  churches,  so 
massively  and  elaborately  are  they  constructed.  This  morning 
we  went  over  and  under  the  Chicago  river,  the  latter  by  the 
La  Salle  tunnel.  The  city  to-day  has  by  no  means  the  appear- 
ance ot  an  Eastern  Sunday,  but  very  European-like.  Business 
is   done   until    noon    the   same   as    during   the    week. 

We  leave  this  city  to-morrow,  at  9  a.  m.,  for  a  five  days' 
run,  in  a  Pullman  Palace  car,  our  next  resting  place  being 
Sante  Fe,  from    which    point    we   hope   to   write   to   you   again. 


ILiETTE^Ft  II. 

Santa  Fe,  N.  M.,  May  8,  1886. 

Dear  Courier  : — In  simply  stating  that  1,772  miles  have  been 
traveled  in  six  days,  the  reader  can  form  only  a  faint 
conception  of  the  work  actually  accomplished.  Reminiscences 
of  the  past  week  shine  out  so  vividly  that  we  can  scarcely 
find  it  in  our  heart  to  cancel  any,  yet  our  letter  would  be- 
come interminable,  and  we  should  be  censured  for  the  un- 
warrantable freedom  we  would  allow  ourselves  of  your  valua- 
ble paper,  were  we  to  make  a  note  of  all,  hence  a  few 
points   must   suffice. 

Let  us  return  to  Chicago,  where  unexpectedly  we  were 
privileged  to  visit  many  places  of  interest  after  our  first  to 
you  was  written.  In  the  afternoon  of  May  2nd,  in  company 
with  a  jovial  band  of  Quakers,  work  at  sight-seeing  was  con- 
tinued and  prosecuted  with  genuine  American  activity,  which, 
as  is  universally  known,  is  neither  slow  or  routine-like.  South 
Park  was  our  destination.  After  riding  for  hours  in  the  street 
cars,  making  but  one  change,  and  all  for  the  consideration  of 
ten  cents,  we  were  brought  to  the  Park,  which  is  a  rival  of 
Lincoln  Park.  Here  we  found  a  motley  assembly  enjoying  the 
exhilarating  sprifig  air ;  the  aristocracy  of  the  city  rolled  and 
rumbled  in  all  kinds  of  equipages,  and  horsemen  galloped  on 
beautiful  steeds.  In  this  pleasant  spot,  so  skilfully  laid  out, 
with  broad  walks  and  drives,  and  where,  when  the  season  is 
further  advanced,  are  scattered  over  these  green  lawn  beds  ot 
beautiful  flowers,  artistically  arranged,  fountains  springing  up  in 
fairy-like  nooks,  artificial  lakes,  &c.,  everything  contributes  its 
little   towards    the    grandeur   of    the     whole.      We   could    have 


8 

spent  hours  here,  but  our  time  was  limited,  hence  a  run  for 
the  "  dummy  "  was  made,  which  took  us  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Michigan  Avenue,  where  we  feasted  our  eyes  upon  hundreds 
of  lovely  homes.  On  we  strolled,  regardless  of  the  time,  until 
the  shadows  of  night  began  to  overtake  us,  and  we  found  our- 
selves three  miles  from  the  Sherman   House. 

After  tea  we  ascain  continued  our  work.  Although  it  was 
already  8.30,  p.  m.,  we  still  had  much  to  see,  and  having  for 
our  guide  a  courteous  lawyer,  a  resident  of  the  city,  we  received 
much   valuable   information. 

Much  of  the  ground  on  which  Chicago's  most  massive  build- 
ings are  standing  is  made  ground  to  the  depth  of  from  twenty 
to   thirty  feet. 

If  we  at  all  compare  the  destroj^ed  city  with  the  present, 
it  is  because  we  find  it  so  quickly  built  up  over  its  grave. 
The  First  National  Bank,  the  largest  building  of  its  kind  in 
the  world,  was  opened  expressly  for  our  inspection.  The  safe 
vaults,  with  solid  iron  doors  closed  by  a  lock  which 
defies  the  skill  of  the  most  accomplished  burglar,  would  have 
opened  of  itself  for  us  had  we  waited  until  8  o'clock  Mon- 
day morning.  In  the  Columbia  Theatre  the  Mikado  was 
performed  for  the  benefit  of  non-church  goers.  We  saw  noth- 
ing but  the  entrance  of  this  building,  which  was  grand  in 
every  particular.  This  theatre,  by  the  way,  received  its  name 
in  this  wise:  When  Miss  Terry,  the  actress,  came  to  the 
city  she  was  asked  to  name  it,  when  she  exclaimed,  "Hail 
Columbia  !"  The  Board  of  Trade,  in  which  colossal  fortunes 
are  made  and  lost  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  is  another  of 
the  many  wonders  of  the  city.  It  has  a  tower  375  feet  high, 
upon  which  is  placed  a  shi[»  weighing  600  pounds.  A  coronet, 
illuminated  with  numerous  gas  jets,  encircles  the  top.  We 
will  make  mention  of  one  more  building,  and  that  must  suf- 
fice for  Chicago,  viz:  the  Palmer  ilouse.  According  to  the 
judgment  of  several  connoisseurs,  the  attractions  of  this  house 
are  unsurpassed.  Its  world-famed  barber  pirlor,  of  polished 
and  richly-colored  marble,  with  its  four  or  five  hundred  silver 
dollars  imbedded  in  the  marble  fioor;  its  five  thousand  dollar 
wash-stand  which  is  supported  by  fine  Mexican  onyx  pillars, 
all  contrive  to  make  it  a  treasure  house.  This  room  alone  is 
lit  up  with  several  hundred  electric  burners.  The  parlors  are 
elegantly  furnished,  the  di  ning  rooms  are  rich  in  highly-polished 
marble.  The  whole  was  constructed  at  a  cost  of  three  millions 
of  dollars. 


But  we  must  leave  this  gem  of  the  West  and  hasten  on 
cur  journey  to  Kansas  City.  At  9  a.  m.,  Monday,  May  3,  we 
resumed  our  journey  over  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  and  Pacific 
lUiilway.  That  superb  sheet  of  water,  the  Mississippi,  was 
crossed  at  Rock  Island  and  Davenport.  At  various  places  its 
banks  were  overflowed.  Monday  night  was  spent  in  the  cars. 
What  a  solitude  spread  around  us  !  A  tremendous  thunder 
storm  was  hanging  o'er  our  heads,  as  the  sky  darkened  and 
peal  after  peal  arose,  together  with  the  puffing,  hissing  noise 
of  the  engine,  deafening  us  with  their  uproar.  Zig-zag  light- 
ning lit  up  the  heavens  at  intervals,  but  in  safety  we  were 
borne  on  until  8  a.  m.,  when  Kansas  City  was  reached. — 
There  we  spent  about  two  hours.  First  we  took  a  carriage 
ride  around  the  city;  afterwards  a  ride  on  the  cable  road. — 
The  progress  of  this  city  is  like  that  of  all  Western  cities — 
wonderful  !  Real  estate,  which  last  fall  brought  eight  thou- 
sand dollars,  is  to-day  worth  twenty  thousand.  Its  meat  mar- 
ket is  as  good,  if  not  superior,  to  that  of  Chicago.  It,  how- 
ever, lacks  a  public  park.  The  climate  during  the  last  fifteen 
years  has  changed  considerably.  There  is  more  rain,  owing  to 
the    planting   of  trees. 


LETTEI?.    III. 

Dear  Courier  : — After  leaving  Kansas  City,  Tuesday  morning, 
May  5th,  with  the  sun  shining  and  the  rain  pouring  at  in- 
tervals, the  time  was  pleasantly  spent  in  the  Palace  Car,  in 
writing  letters,  talking,  playing  euchre,  and  last,  though  not 
least,  in  having  the  youthful  crayon  sketchist  of  the  party 
deftly  wielding  her  pencil  as  a  good  subject  chanced  to  strike 
her  fancy.  Had  we  confidence  enough  in  our  own  taste,  it 
would  be  a  pleasure  to  dwell  for  a  little  time  on  these  pro- 
ductions— for  the  opportunity  is  tempting,  but  we  dare  not 
indulge,  knowing  that  as  a  rule  artists  are  sensitive,  and  our  un- 
cultivated taste  might  bring  forward  what  should  be  left  in  the 
shnde,  and  leave  untouched  that  which  would  give  character; 
Therefore  we  must  deny  ourselves  this  delight.  Dinner  and 
supper  were  taken  at  the  dining  stations  along  the  line — the 
former  at  Topeka,  the  latter  at  Newton.  These  dining  rooms 
are  owned  by  the  railway  company,  and  are  under  skilful 
management.  At  all  where  meals  were  taken  thus  far,  entire 
satisfaction    has   been    given. 


10 

Before  leaving  Newton,  a  gentleman  from  this  town  paid  our 
car  a  short  visit,  and  in  genuine  western  style  gave  us  much 
and  interesting  information  about  the  place.  But  twelve  years 
ago,  where  there  is  now  a  flourishing  town,  buttaloes  ran  at 
large,  and  at  the  present  day  Indians  come  to  the  market 
place   to   trade   horses. 

Wednesday,  May  6,  after  a  tolerably  good  night's  rest,  we 
awoke  in  the  uninviting  region  of  Western  Kansas,  near 
Coolridge,  having  passed  Dodge  City  during  the  night.  The 
sun  was  just  peeping  above  the  eastern  horizon,  (we  are 
very  early  risers,  when  out  upon  the  prairies.)  What  a  scene 
met  our  eyes  !  Over  a  broad  expanse  of  country,  without  a 
habitation  in  view,  hundreds  of  cattle  were  lying  dead,  hav- 
ing been  frozen  during  the  severe  winter  months.  It  was  in- 
deed, a  sad,  sad  sight.  Miles  and  miles  of  prairie  land  were 
passed,  with  nothing  but  the  sage  bush,  cactus  and  yucca, 
scattered  everywhere.  Sometimes,  however,  to  vary  the  mo- 
notony, emigrants  living  in  tents  were  brought  upon  the  scene. 
Surely  the  country  here  appeared  to  us  for  no  good  save  to 
build  railroads,  as  few  bridges  and  no  tunnels  would  need  be 
constructed. 

At  La  Junta,  Col.,  where  breakfast  was  had,  the  snowy 
range  came  in  view,  making  a  pleasing  and  prominent  object 
in  the  landscape.  Every  new  feature  was  welcomed  with  de- 
light. At  South  Pueblo,  after  dinner,  we  got  ourselves  in 
readiness  for  a  visit  to  the  Veta  Pass  and  Toltec  Gorge,  via 
Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railway.  A  change  of  cars  was  nec- 
essary, as  we  were  going  on  a  narrow  guage  road.  This  side 
excursion  was  the  crowning  feature  of  the  week.  Between 
South  Pueblo  and  Chuchara  the  heat  was  very  oppressive. — 
Near  the  station  of  San  Carlos  we  saw  the  country  so  smooth 
that  we  doubt  whether  it  can  be  anywhere  surpassed.  As  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach,  with  nothing  to  obstruct  the  view,  an 
open  stretch  of  country,  like  an  immense  ocean  lay  before  U3. 
However,  at  La  Veta  Pass  the  tableau  changed.  Here  we 
beheld  the  two  Spanish  Peaks,  (two-and-a  half  miles  high  and 
twelve  miles  distant,)  standing  out  in  bold  relief.  At  the  La 
Veta  Station  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow,  which  gave 
considerable  amusement  to  some  of  the  passengers,  who  in- 
dulged in  the  sports  oi  mid-winter,  in  the  budding  month  of 
May.  The  train  now  began  to  climb  the  mountain  steeps. — 
The  two  beautifully  snow-covered  Spanish  Peaks  kept  flitting 
now  here,  now   there — one    second    in  front     of  you,     the     next 


11 

instant  behind — so  winding  is  the  road.  The  trees  looked 
like  patches  of  green,  so  steep  became  the  ascent.  The  heavy 
o-rades  here  almost  strike  terror  to  one's  hearts,  but  no  thousrht 
of  danger  was  permitted  to  be  indulged  in.  As  one  of  the 
passengers  remarked,  '4f  they  could  build  the  road  we  can 
ride  over  it."  When  we  reached  the  famous  Mule  Shoe 
Curve,  neither  the  engine  nor  any  car,  save  the  one  we  were 
in,  could  be  seen  from  our  car  windows.  Imagine  anything 
more  daring  if  you  can !  On  this  wonderfully-graded  road, 
which  goes  obliquely,  or  in  fact  just  any  way  it  pleases,  up 
the  steep  mountain  side,  a  single  false  turn  would  plunge 
everything  down  an  incline,  from  whence  few  would  return  to 
tell  the  tale.  The  train  follows  the  windings  of  the  moun- 
tains, now  clinging  to  the  side,  then  suspended  above  preci- 
pices, sharp  angles,  bold  curves,  plunging  into  narrow  gorges 
from  which  exit  seems  impossible— on,  on,  until  an  elevation 
of  9,393  feet  is  reached !  Here  we  began  to  feel  a  tightness 
on  the  chest;  respiration  became  a  task.  After  the  west  slope 
of  the  range  is  gained,  the  immense  San  Louis  valley  which 
consists  of  18,000  square  miles,  is  entered.  The  Sierra  Blanca, 
which  at  the  present  day  claims  to  put  all  other  peaks  in 
the  shade,  having  an  elevation  of  14,464  feet,  soon  comes  into 
view. 

During  the  day  dark  clouds  threatening  us  with  a  snow 
storm  hung  ominously  over  our  heads.  A  slight  feathery 
sprinkle  would  not  have  been  objectionable,  but  it  would  have 
been  no  fun  had  we  been  snowed  in.  The  views  from  the 
top  of  the  mountains  are  marvelous.  With  the  exception  of 
a  few  shanties  and  dug-outs  and  at  long  intervals  a  little  bit 
of  open  sunny  cultivated  patch.  Nature  stands  alone  in  all 
her  niajesty.  Passengers  are  often  tempted  to  stand  on  the 
rear  platform  while  making  this  trip  to  the  Veta  Pass,  a 
position  at  all  times  dangerous,  but  is  particularly  so  here,  on 
account  of  the  frequent  and  sharp  curves.  The  conductor's 
story  is  that  during  thirty-three  years  of  railroad  service,  he 
saw  thirty  persons  thrown  from  that  perilous  position.  This 
did  not  seem  to  frighten  those  who  were  determined  to  see 
all    there   was   to   be   seen    from   this   desirable   point. 

It  is  also  told  as  a  fact  that  in  making  the  Mule  Shoe 
Curve,  it  frequently  breaks  off  corners  of  the  last  car. 
Whether  these  western  stories  are  a  myth,  like  that  of  the 
*Miitle   hatchet,"  we  are   unable   to  say. 


12 

Dear  Courier: — That  no  country  can  coaipare  with  America 
in  its  richness  of  natural  wonders,  we  were  forced  to  admit 
after  our  return  from  Toltec  Gorge,  Col.  The  praises  of  Ni- 
agara Falls,  the  Natural  Bridge  of  Virginia,  the  Yosemite 
Valley  have  become  familiar  to  every  school  boy  and  girl, 
and  their  attractions  have  been  sei  forth  in  such  glowing  and 
attractive  terms,  that  would  lead  the  unsophisticated  to  be- 
lieve that  nothing  grander  in  Nature  could  exist.  But  not 
so.  The  praises  of  Toltec  Gorge  can  be  sung  for  years  ere 
all   its  beauties    will   lose   their   freshness. 

But  we  have  been  anticipating:  let  us  retrace  our  thoughts 
to  Alamosa,  where  in  a  car  upon  a  side  track  we  spent  the 
night  of  Ma}^  5,  prior  to  our  visit  to  the  famous  Gorge.  We 
left  our  crowded  sleeping  quarters  very  early  in  the  mornino;, 
and  were  amply  repaid  for  the  sacrifice,  if  there  was  any,  for 
Old  Sol  certainly  did  magnificently  on  this  memorable  occa- 
sion. A  more  gorgeous  sunrise  we  never  saw.  The  genial 
proprietor  of  the  Victoria  Uouse,  where  we  took  our  break- 
fast, prepared  us  for  the  sudden  burst.  There  was  nothing 
gradual  about  it.  In  an  instant  the  snow-clad  Sierra  Blanca 
was  enveloped  in  a  ball  of  fire,  glistening  like  myriads  of 
jewels,  while  the  orb  scintillated  more  brilliantly  than  ever. 
The  exhilarating  pure  morning  air  invigorated  us  to  such  an 
extent  and  sharpened  our  appetites,  that  full  justice  was  done  to 
the  morning  meal,  and  well  was  it  for  us  that  such  was  the 
case,  for  our  dinner  hour  came  not,  until  three  hours  beyond 
the    noon-day  stroke. 

At  7:40  a  m..  May  (3,  we  were  all  ready  for  a  visit  to  the 
Gorge.  The  party  left  in  two  sections.  After  passing  through 
miles  ot  the  desolate  and  worthless-looking  country  of  the  San 
Luis  Valley,  with  the  beautiful  blue  Colorado  sky  above  our 
heads,  (a  dangerous  rival  of  sunny  Italy,)  we  find  ourselves 
entering  ui>on  an  elevated  scene,  when  the  grandeur  gradually 
becomes  indescribable.  Whoever  had  any  idea  that  the  Rocky 
Mountains  could  be  so  satisfactorily  seen!  What  skillful  engi- 
neering is  here  displayed!  Truly  the  work  of  man  conmiands 
our  admiration,   as    well    as   that    of   Nature. 

What  glorious  views  we  had  continually  before  our  eyes; 
could  we  but  have  caught  it  all  on  a  canvass !  All  around 
this  majestic  landscape  the  high -peaked  mountains  boldly  as- 
cended and  descended,  sometimes  appearing  to  run  into  each 
other,   then  in  an   opposite  direction,    as  the    railway     mounted 


13 

higher  and  higher,  up  the  steep  and  heavy  grades  until  a 
plunge  through  the  tunnel  landed  us  upon  a  platform  with 
the  culminating  point  of  the  Gorge  before  us.  What  excla- 
mations of  surprise  broke  upon  the  silent  air!  Here,  upon  an 
elevation  of  nine  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  Nature's  painter  and  sculptor  labored  lovingly  to- 
gether to  give  us  one  of  their  rarest  gems.  From  what  other 
place  on  earth  does  the  eye  range  over  more  that  is  grand 
and   beautiful  ! 

Truly,  if  there  are  sermons  in  stones,  there  are  in  those  of 
Toltec  Gorge.  Looking  around  us  in  the  shadow  of  this 
eventful  day's  sun,  what  visions  flitted  through  the  mind ! 
Human  trouble  seemed  but  a  momentary  annoyance,  yet,  as 
the  tooting  and  hissing  sound  of  the  engine  informed  us, 
that  human  happinesss  was  just  an  evanescent,  for  it  reminded 
us  of  the  fact  that  we  must  hasten  to  take  our  parting  glances 
ere  resuming  our  journey.  We  once  more  admired  Nature's 
pondrous  masonry.  What  a  chasm  extended  between  it  and 
ourselves!  We  feared  to  venture  too  near,  for  the  motion  of 
the  train  had  slightly  toyed  with  our  equilibrium,  yet  we 
dared  for  a  moment  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  raging,  rush- 
ing waters  in  the  great  abyss.  Little  shrubs  ventured  here 
and  there  to  sprout  out  of  crevices,  but  these  did  little  to- 
wards  softening   the   stern  aspect  of   the   CliiFs. 

Here  in  the  midst  of  Nature's  work,  standing  solitary 
against  the  blue  heavens,  bravely  facing  the  winter  storms  and 
kissing  the  summer  breezes,  stands  a  monument  in  memory  of 
the  beloved  and  lamented  Garfield.  For  a  moment  this  trib- 
ute of  respect  swells  the  heart  with  pride  and  sorrow,  un- 
consciously forcing  tears  to  the  eyes.  It  was  erected  by  mem- 
bers of  the  National  Association  of  General  Passenger  and 
Ticket  Agents,  who  held  burial  services  on  this  epot,  Sep- 
tember 26,  1881.  A  more  solemn,  imposing  and  impressive 
spot  could  not  have  been  chosen  anywhere  on  the  face  of  the 
earth. 

We  continued  our  journey  once  more,  in  reverse  or- 
der, again  enjoying  the  magnificent  scenery.  In  imagination 
we  peopled  these  mountains.  How  grandly  villages  would  nes- 
tle in  many  of  those  spurs  and  declivities!  How  a  convent 
bell  would  echo  and  re-echo  among:  these  silent  hills !  But 
all  was  hushed.  No  sign  of  life,  save  now  and  then  a  prai- 
rie dog  perched  upon  its  little  mound,  or  galloping  along,  run- 
nino-   a    race    with    the   eno:ine. 


14 

In  this  wild  and  picturesque  Colorado  it  is  said  that  per- 
fect harmony  prevails  among  the  rattlesnakes,  prairie  dogs  and 
owls,  who  live  together   in   one  home. 

On  our  return  to  Alamosa,  we  witnessed  a  genuine  Cow 
Boy  performance,  which  was  given  for  our  special  benefit,  and 
which  was  enjoyed  with  such  an  extravagance  of  tun  as  was 
delightful  to  behold.  Seated  on  Mustan^^  ponies,  they  dashed 
up  and  down  the  street,  throwing  the  lasso  right  and  lett, 
taking  in  men,  dogs,  and  finally  each  other,  with  such  dex- 
terity as  could  only  be  acquired  by  considerable  practice. 
Although  tall  stories  of  the  doings  of  these  boys  often  reach 
the  east,  we  were  assured  by  one,  not  of  them,  that  they 
were  a  good  set  of  fellows.  Dudes,  however,  must  give  them 
a   wide   berth,   as  their   high   hats   make   interesting   targets. 

Monday  morning.  May  7,  found  us  at  El  Moro  station,  so 
named  from  the  castle-shaped  rocks  near  by.  Here  we  left 
the  Narrow  Guage  Road,  and  were  welcomed,  by  our  very 
accommodating  porter  Sam,  back  to  our  old  quarters,  on  the 
Atchinson,   Topeka   and   Santa   Fe   road. 


Dear  Courier  : — The  first  interesting  feature  which  arrested 
our  attention  after  crossing  the  line  between  Colorado  and  New 
Mexico  was  the  little  white  house  of  Dick  Wooten.  The 
Sante  Fe  Trail,  which  proved  a  bonanza  for  '•'•  Uncle  Dick"  (as 
he  is  familiarly  called)  until  its  formidable  rival,  the  steam 
engine,  came  on  the  stage,  is  seen  for  many  miles.  As  the 
toll  gate  at  Uncle  Dick'^  house  opens  only  after  $1.50  has 
been  dropped  into  the  coffer,  one  would  suppose  that  its  cus- 
todian would,  at  the  ripe  old  age  of  sevetity-five,  be  num- 
bered among  the  money  kings  of  the  west  ;  but  not  so.  It 
appears  that  in  his  younger  days,  when  money  came  thick 
and  fast.  Uncle  Dick  was  numbered  among  the  sporting  men 
of  that  day.  Expensive  trips  to  San  Francisco  were  often 
indulged   in,   speedily   diminishing   the   heap. 

The  road  here  is  exceedingly  steep,  so  much  so  that  it  re- 
quires a  sixty-five  ton  engine  to  surmount  it.  At  8  a.  m., 
Raton,  our  breakfast  station,  was  reached.  As  we  began  the 
day  four  hours  previously,  we  were  rather  a  hungry  crowd. 
Our  disappointment  was  indescribable  when  w^e  discovered  that 
we    arrived   two   hours  ahead   of  time.     There   was  nothinor  left 


15 

for  us    to   do   save   eat  the     atmosphere,   which   we     did    while 
strolling    up   and   down    the    platform. 

Near  Wagon  Mound  we  saw  the  first  red  man.  "  Ah,  an 
Indian,"  was  the  exclamation  which  went  the  rounds  and 
caused  not  a  little  amusement  long  after  the  object  of  our  ad- 
miration  w^as   left   in   the  distance. 

Between  here  and  Las  Vegas  hundreds  of  dead  cattle  are 
lying  around,  victims  of  the  freshet  which  visited  this  section 
a  month  ago.  Our  next  halting  place  was  Las  Vegas.  We  re- 
mained here  long  enough  to  glean  a  few  points  w^hich  may 
be  of  interest,  as  well  as  encouragement,  to  the  progressive 
city  of  Lebanon.  It  took  the  place  exactly  eight  years  to  be- 
come a  city.  That  number  of  years  ago  it  consisted  of  one 
house,  and  that  an  adobe  or  mud  house ;  to-day  it  has  a  regu- 
lar  horse   car   line  connecting    East   and    West. 

Las  Vegas  is  amply  supplied  with  water  pipes  and  sewers, 
gas,  telphone,  in  fact  abounds  in  all  modern  conveniences. — 
Several  very  fine  houses.  Queen  Anne  style,  are  among  its 
adornments. 

At  3  p.  m..  Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs  station,  situated  six 
miles  from  the  city,  bearing  the  same  name,  was  reached. — 
Here  we  took  dinner  and  supper  at  the  Hot-springs  Hotel. 
The  beautiful  Montezuma  House,  which  fell  a  prey  to  the 
flames  last  August,  is  being  a  speedily  rebuilt  by  the  insur- 
ance companies  in  which  it  was  protected  to  the  amount  of 
two  hundred  thousand  dollars.  Over  one  hundred  difierent 
mechanics  were  at  work.  We  went  over  the  greater  part  of 
the  building,  and  found  it  superior  to  many  city  hotels. — 
Here  are  found  the  electric  light,  steam  heat,  telephone,  ele- 
vator, elegant  wood  work,  &c.  All  this  display  in  a  place 
that  can  scarcely  boast  of  a  dozen  houses.  However,  the  at- 
tractions here  are  the  great  number  of  medicinal  springs,  and 
their  charming  surroundings.  No  less  than  forty  have  been 
discovered.  Twenty-five  ot  this  number  have  been  neatly  ex- 
cavated and  walled  up,  so  to  as  make  them  easy  lor  access. 
No.  17,  one  of  the  hottest,  has  a  temperature  of  160.  There 
are  two  bath  houses.  The  one  most  interesting  to  us  was  the 
one  exclusively  used  for  mud  baths.  We  learned  that  patients 
usually  take  one  bath  a  day,  the  mud  being  prepared  in  this 
wise:  first,  it  is  carefully  sieved,  so  as  to  free  it  from  all 
sticks  and  stones ;  then  a  batter  is  made  by  mixing  it  with 
sulphur  water.  The  bath  lasts  from  twenty  minutes  to  a 
half  an    hour,   when   a   massage   is    used    as    a    reinforcer.     We 


IG 

came  to  the  conclusion  that  a  graceful  yield  to  the  tyrant 
Death  would  be  more  desirable  than  to  light  him  in  this 
manner. 

Saturday,  May  8,  at  4  a.  m.,  we  had  before  us  Santa  Fe, 
the  capital  of  New  Mexico.  At  a  seasonable  hour  carriages 
arrived  from  the  Palace  llotel ;  hither  we  were  conveyed, 
where  we  found  pleasant  and  airy  rooms.  The  population  of 
this  city  consists  of  Americans,  Mexicans  and  Indians.  It  is 
considered  a  very  healthy  place  to  live,  yet  this  statement  is 
most  emphatically  contradicted  by  the  figures  on  the  tomb 
stones,  in  the  silent  city  on  the  hill.  Very  few  persons  are 
buried  here  who  were  called  to  join  the  innumerable  caravan 
at  a  later  age  than  at  fifty.  This  city  is  built  principally  of 
adobes  or  mud  houses,  which  are  more  substantial  than  ele- 
gant. In  the  Historical  Society  Building  are  splendid  speci- 
mens of  ancient  pottery  and  minerals,  an  old  Mexican  guitar 
and  fiddle,  a  Pueblo  cradle,  filigree  jewelry,  and  immense 
pieces  of  petrified  wood  (cedar  and  pine.)  This  wood  is  being 
utilized.  When  polished  it  makes  beautiful  slabs  for  wash- 
stands  and  bureaus.  In  the  reception  room  of  the  Sisters' 
Hospital  we  were  kindly  met  by  sister  Sebastian ;  but  it  be- 
ing Saturday,  always  a  busy  day  with  them,  we  could  not 
inspect  the  building.  She,  however,  kindly  took  us  into  a 
neat  private  adobe,  and  we  were  surprised  to  find  how  cheer- 
ful and  homelike  it  was.  The  walls  ure  three  feet  in  thick- 
ness, and  very  substantial.  A  modern  window  was  pointed 
out  to  us,  the  opening  for  which  it  took  a  workman  a  whole 
day  to  cut.  In  Saint  Frtincis  church,  during  the  Sunday 
morning  service,  a  curious  spectacle  was  presented :  kneeling 
on  the  cold  marble  floor,  in  clothing  faded  with  sunshine  and 
washed  out  with  showers,  many,  with  no  covering  for  the 
head,  save  heavy  rusty-looking  shawls,  others  with  sun  bon- 
nets of  various  hues,  while  here  and  there  peeped  gaily-colored 
ribbons  of  those  more  fortunate  in  this  world's  goods.  There 
they  come  in  hundreds  to  pay  their  morning  devotions.  It 
was  indeed  beautiful  to  observe  how  tender  were  the  souls  of 
these  men  and  women  towards  the  Virgin  Mother.  Though 
an  indolent  people  with  seemingly  not  a  w^hit  of  ambition  in 
this  world,  they  have  a  reverence  for  their  sanctuary  which 
touches  the  beholder.  Their  principal  article  of  food  is  Cliili, 
a  red  pepper,  something  similar  to  ours,  though  less  strong. 
This  is  prepared  in  various  ways.  Among  the  curiosities  of 
the   city   are   an   old    adobe  church    and    house    which     claim     to 


17 

be  three  hundred  years  old,  and  an  old  beggar,  one  hundred 
years  old.  You  are  asked  to  pay  a  certain  amount  to  see 
the  church.  You  are  prepared  for  this.  You  step  into  the 
old  house  gratis,  but  you  are  told  something  must  be  paid  to 
get  out.  You  are  surprised  at  this,  but  you  want  to  get  out, 
consequently  you  search  for  a  dime.  The  old  beggar  con- 
scientiously claims  to  be  cnly  one  hundred  years  old.  He 
might  easily  add  one  or  two  hundred  more,  and  no  one 
would  doubt  him,  for  he  looks  ancient  enough  to  have  been 
one  of  Noah's  family.  lie  has  vitality  enough,  however,  to 
hold  his  hat  for  hours,  in  which  you  can  throw  as  much 
loose   change   as   you  desire. 

The  atmosphere  of  Santa  Fe  is  very  clear;  three  miles  be- 
low the  city,  the  Sierra  Blanca  peak  can  be  distinctly  seen, 
although  it  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  distant.  The 
Santa  Fe  Baldly,  a  snowcapped  mountain,  stands  out  promi- 
nently. On  Sunday  morning  quite  an  assembly  visited  the 
U.  S.  Barracks,  where  an  uninteresting  drill  took  place.  In 
the  afternoon  the  military  band  gave  an  excellent  concert  in 
the    square. 

We  must  not  fail  to  make  mention  of  that  faithful  patient 
little  animal,  the  burro,  which  abounds  in  this  place.  They 
come  down  the  mountain  almost  hidden  underneath  the  im- 
mense pile  of  wood  wliich  is  packed  on  their  backs  and  sold 
for  twenty -five  cents  a  load.  They  receive  little  or  no  atten- 
tion from  their  owners.  They  eat  anything  and  everything 
they    can    find,   and   thrive   on    it, — hence  are  very   profitable. 


Dear  Courier: — After  leaving  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico,  and 
passing  through  a  dreary,  dismal,  desolate  country,  with  no 
water,  no  vegetation,  but  myriads  of  boulders,  giving  the  be- 
holder some  conception  of  a  terrific  volcano  disturbance  which 
luiture  must  at  one  time  have  indulged  in,  the  train  reached  the 
station  of  Wallace,  N.  M.  Indians  were  observed  running 
from  every  direction  and  congregating  on  the  platform,  their 
object  being  to  sell  pottery  and  bits  of  stones  to  the  tourists. 
Those  specimens  of  the  wild  tribe  of  the  west  were  most  em- 
I)hatically  the  queerest  and  dirtiest-looking  people  it  has  ever 
been  our  lot  to  behold.  It  appeared  incredible  that  they  were 
actually  in  their  ordinary  costume,  and  not  masquerading  for 
our    benefil:.      They    were    soon    surrounded    by    the     multitude 


18 

that  swarmed  out  of  the  cars,  but  the  agent  accompaiiyiug 
the  excursion,  evidently  not  desiring  the  Eayrnond  party  in- 
creased, dropped  a  word  here  and  there  which  had  a  magic 
effect  upon  the  spectators.  The  Indian  was  immediatel^'^ 
placed  in  quarantine.  As  we  continued  on  our  journey  nu- 
merous Pueblos^  or  Indian  villages,  were  passed,  and  wherever 
the  train  halted,  if  but  for  a  second,  one  or  more  of  the 
tribe,  male  and  female,  would  make  a  detour  of  the  cars, 
trying  to  sell  their  ware.  A  leper  would  have  been  about  as 
welcome.  Every  object  they  offered  for  sale,  whether  large  o" 
small,  was  the  same  price,  viz:  tin  cinis — that  being  their 
nearest  intelligent  approach  to  the  English  language ;  however, 
a   nickle  was   not  despised,   when   a   bargain    was   attempted. 

At  Albuequerque,  N.  M.,  where  on  May  10th  we  took  din- 
ner and  supper,  we  had  an  excellent  opportunity  of  making 
the  acquaintance  of  an  Indian  lad  who  had  been  given  the 
advantages  of  one  ot  the  training  schools,  those  noble  institu- 
tians  planned  for  the  welfare  of  this  rapidly-diminishing  race. 
He  was  but  seventeen  years  of  age,  spoke  English  with  re- 
markable fluency,  and  seemed  to  appreciate  what  had  been 
done  for  him.  His  responses  were  perfectly  frank  and  kind. 
If  we  may  be  allowed  to  judge  the  race  from  this  sample, 
then  surely  we  cannot  but  conclude  that  they  are  as  bright 
and  intelligent  a  people  as  any,  when  o])port unities  are  af- 
forded  them    to   develop   their   talents. 

Alburquerque  is  a  dull,  uninteresting  town,  almost  buried 
in  sand.  It  consists  of  a  new  and  old  part,  and  is  probably 
dignified  by  the  title  of  city.  A  horse  car  line  extends  from 
one  part  to  the  other.  Drug  and  jewelry  stores  occupy  the 
same  room.  l!^othing  less  than  a  nickle  is  in  circulation.  We 
visited  the  public  school  building,  in  which  are  four  depart- 
ments. The  children  are  taught  English  and  Spanish.  Some 
thirty  little  girls  sang  a  Spanish  li3^mn  very  sweetly  for  us. 
The   schools   are   in   charge   of  the   Sisters. 

Between  Manuelito  and  Allantown  the  line  between  New 
Mexico  and  Arizona  is  crossed.  As  we  sped  on  through  the 
latter,  what  a  perfect  enjoyment  was  ours  in  Nature's  changing 
scenery !  For  miles  acres  of  sand  beds  are  seen,  with  now  and 
then  a  green  waste,  over  which  the  nimble  jack  rabbit  skips, 
with  nothing  to  check  its  progress.  Then,  0  beautiful  to  be- 
hold !  acres  of  wild  flowers — a  perfect  wilderness  of  purple,  scarlet 
and  gold!  With  what  delicate  skill  and  accuracy  Nature  has 
fashioned    them  all!       Now    we    come    to    mountain    peaks     and 


19 

rocks,  producing  the  most  fantastic  forms,  such  as  castles,  towers, 
pyramids,  monuments,  giants  and  animals,  while  the  frolicsome 
clouds  o'er  head,  sometimes  dipping  far  below  the  sloping  range, 
add  a  most  exquisite  and  effective  contrast.  Thus  the  scene  is 
ever   changing. 

At  the  Canon  Diabolo,  where  a  beautiful  and  expensive  iron 
bridge  spans  the  deep,  yaw^ning,  crooked  chasm,  a  terrific  fiow^er 
massacre  took  j)lace,  in  which  hundreds  of  innocent  little  plants 
came  to  a  sudden  and  untimely  end.  Although  a  very  high 
wind  was  prevailing  at  the  time,  it  did  not  prevent  Nature's 
lovers  from  gathering  between  twent^^-five  and  thirty  different 
varieties  of  courageous  prairie  flowers,  and  at  the  same  time 
picking  up  here  and  there  some  worthless  fragment  of  the 
gorge.  A  yucca  stalk,  in  brilliant  bloom,  was  carried  away 
in  triumph.  It  was  scarcely  more  than  four  feet  in  height, 
yet  eight  hundred  and  eighty  flowers  and  buds  were  actually 
counted  upon  its  stem !  This  specie  of  palm,  with  its  beauti- 
fully lily-shapen  flower,  is  found  here  in  great  abundance,  as 
is  also  the  cactus.  To  these  plants  is  assigned  the  peaceful 
duty  of  brightening  up  the  desert  waste  long  after  the  my- 
riads  of  varied-hued   flowers   are  left   in   the  distance. 

At  Barstow  we  took  our  first  Golden  State  repast.  It  was 
a  memorable  event.  What  a  swarm  of  insects  greeted  us ! 
It  was  nothing  else  than  the  ubiquitous  fly,  hovering  round 
and  about  us,  exasperating  us  with  their  melancholy  buzz. 
Long  ere  the  meal  was  over,  we  concluded  that  this  must  be 
the  winter  rendezvous  of  the  entire  fly  family,  and  w^e  ar- 
rived  before   they   branched  out    to  their  summer  quarters. 

On  our  arrival  at  Colton,  California,  we  began  to  realize 
that  we  were  indeed  in  the  land  of  precious  metals,  golden 
fruits  and  golden  fields.  Already  the  wheat  was  fit  for  the 
garner.  What  a  startling  contrast  to  the  luxuriant  prairies 
we  had  so  recently  seen !  both  to  be  admired  and  enjoyed, 
both  scenes  well  worth  gazing  at.  Orange  and  lemon  groves 
became  numerous.  Immense  vineyards  skirted  both  sides  of 
the  road.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  this  is  not  the  season 
of  the  vintage,  for  there  promises  to  be  an  abundance  of  the 
luscious   grape. 

At  Ontario  we  came  within  a  hair-breadth  of  having  a 
terrible  collision.  We  were  waiting,  as  we  thought,  on  a  side 
track  for  the  regular  train  to  pass ;  the  fortunate  discovery 
that  we  were  not,  was  made  when  the  train  was  already 
stcamino;   in. 


20 

From  Pomona  to  Los  Angeles  the  country  is  admirably 
tilled.  We  were  very  forcibly  reminded  by  the  eucalyptus,  the 
pepper,  the  palm,  the  mistletoe,  &c.,  that  we  were  not  in  a 
Keystone  State  climate.  The  houses  are  most  beautifully 
nestled  within  the  shrubbery,  and  are  so  overrun  with  blos- 
soming creepers,  and  surrounded  by  rustic  arbors,  that  they 
grow    with   remarkable  beauty. 

We  were  nearing  Los  Angeles.  This  fact  was  made  known 
by  Sam,  the  porter,  who  began  to  eye  one  and  all  in  a  sad 
and  anxious  manner.  We  were  about  to  part — would  perhaps 
never  see  each  other  again.  What  would  the  harvest  be  ?  Ln 
short,  the  brushing  season  was  at  hand,  and  strange  as  it 
may  seem,  so  dirty  were  we  that  fifty  cents'  worth  of  mother 
earth  blew  off  of  every  one  of  us.  Our  dusky  friend  was 
happy. 


LETTER   -^XX. 

Los  Angeles,  May  13,  1886. 
Dear  Courier  :  —  It  was  not  the  station  of  Los  Angeles, 
neither  its  surroundings,  that  monopolized  our  attention  and 
admiration  when  we  alighted  at  this  city  of  the  Queen  of  the 
Angels,  but  a  panorama  in  which,  though  unconsciously,  one 
of  the  most  eminent  of  the  tourists  figured  most  conspicuously. 
The  omnibuses  of  the  Pico  House  were  awaiting  our  arrival  ; 
these  were  quickly  filled  to  overflowing  by  those  who  were 
nearest  to  them.  However,  all  could  not  be  accommodated, 
hence,  it  was  necessary  for  some  to  wait  for  the  second  trip. 
A  prominent  divine,  taking  in  the  situation  at  a  glance,  and 
evidently  not  relishing  the  idea  of  playing  second  any- 
where, and  whose  gigantic  proportions  enabled  him  to  detect  a 
desirable  location  among  the  shawl-straps,  hand  satchels  and 
umbrellas  on  top  of  one  .of  the  omnibuses,  was  observed  to 
quicken  his  loose,  shambling  gait,  and  laying  aside  all  clerical 
dignity,  with  one  step  and  a  half  bounded  lightly  to  the  top, 
geographically  in  a  good  position  to  represent  an  excellent 
burlesque  on  the  Bartholdi  statue  of  Liberty  Enlightening  the 
World.  It  was  a  sculpturesque,  as  well  as  a  pictorial,  departure, 
for  so  completely  was  he  transformed  to  an  outer  world,  that 
not  a  sign  of  recognition  did  he  deign  to  offer,  in  exchange  to 
a  kindly  social  warmth  which  copiously  flitted  up  to  his  serial 
heights.     This   hardness   of    heart   made   the   scene   doubly    ludi- 


21 

crous    and    indelible.     Such    was  our    triumphal    entry   into    the 
Paradise   of  Southern  California. 

On  the  day  afrer  our  arrival,  at  9.15  a.  m.,  we  were  one  of 
a  jjarty  of  fourteen  who  clambered  into  an  immense  five-seated 
stage,  occupjnng  one  of  the  two  choice  seats  in  the  driver's 
domain.  Our  destination  was  Pasadena,  the  most  attractive 
suburb  of  Los  Angeles,  situated  eight  miles  distant,  and  chris- 
tened the  gem  of  this  county.  The  four  horses  —  Jack,  Dick, 
Prince  and  Fanny — had  an  arduous  journey  before  them,  but 
they  neighed  cheerfully  in  the  clear  golden  air,  as  they  bore  the 
merry  party  along  from  whose  hearts  this  soft  exhilarating 
climate  was  bound  to  lift  every  care.  Our  road  led  us  through 
Lincoln  Park,  which  plot  of  ground  was  bequeathed  to  the 
city,  and  in  which  there  is  any  amount  of  room  for  improve- 
ment. Here  are  found  in  great  abundance  the  live  oak,  poison 
oak,  pepper,  English  walnut  and  numerous  other  trees.  One 
would  suppose  from  the  appearance  of  this  wild  spot,  that 
game  would  abound  here,  but  beyond  quail  nothing  is  found 
within  a  radius  of  fifty  miles.  The  "Raymond,"  a  beautiful 
hotel  built  on  a  magnificent  elevation  in  the  center  of  the 
San  Gabriel  Valley,  and  which  will  be  opened  for  the  first 
time  in  November,  promises  to  be  one  of  the  attractions  of 
Pasadena.  The  scenery  from  this  hill  alone  is  worth  a  journey 
from  the  east.  The  Raymond  parties  will  hereafter  find  this 
house  their  Mecca,  as  the  limited  hotel  accommodations  in  Los 
Angeles  have  greatly  detracted  from  the  otherwise  most  attract- 
ive part  of  the  excursion.  We  were  considerably  crowded  at 
the  Pico  House,  so  much  so  that  every  nook  and  corner  were 
occupied,  and  much  dissatisfaction  prevailed.  It  was  here  that 
small  rooms  yielded  a  big  per  centage.  The  "  Raymond  "  prom- 
ises to  be  equipped  with  every  convenience  and  luxury,  and 
so  much  confidence  has  the  public  in  whatever  Mr.  Raymond 
undertakes,  that  already  nearly  all  of  the  three  hundred  rooms 
are  engaged  for   the   winter  of  '86. 

At  the  Sierra  Madre  Villa,  six  miles  from  Pasadena,  we 
took  our  lunch.  This  villa  is  situated  on  nearly  the  highest 
part  of  the  foot  hills  which  stretch  along  the  valley,  and  the 
farthest  way  round  is  the  only  way  to  get  there.  It  is  beau- 
tifully situated  amid  orange  and  lemon  orchards  and  ever- 
blooming  flowers.  It  is  here  that  geranium  leaves  measuring 
nine  and  a  quarter  inches  may  be  carried  off.  A  drive 
through  the  famous  Rose  ranch  and  a  visit  to  Mr.  Adams' 
home   were     the     principal     features     of     our     afternoon     drive. 


22 

Here  we  were  privileged  to  (j^o  to  the  orchard  and  pluck 
the  golden  luscious  fruit.  The  Adams  cottage  and  yard  are 
marvels  of  loveliness.  Here  flourish  ever-blooming  roses  of 
many  varieties,  the  giant  of  all  being  a  lamarque  which  en- 
velops the  entire  side  and  roof  of  the  house,  and  the  trunk 
of  which  measures  twenty  inches  m  circumference.  All  flow- 
ers and  shrubs  do  well  here;  even  the  tender  fuchsia  attains 
a  truly  marvelous  perfection.  Will  those  rose-embowered 
homes  in  Los  Angeles  ever  be  forgotten !  In  this  sun  land, 
what  ornamentation  the  soil  can  be  made  to  produce  !  The 
grounds  around  the  houses  are  arranged  in  a  profusely  orna- 
mented style,  magnificent  hedges  of  Cyprus,  pomegranate, 
lime,  geraniums  and  calla  lillies,  (of  the  latter  we  counted 
two  hundred  flowers  in  one  stretch,)  grace  the  cicy.  During 
the  Flower  Festival  held  during  the  month  of  March,  wagon 
loads  of  blooming  roses  were  brought  to  the  city.  The  Cyprus 
hedge  is  gracefully  trimmed  with  mathematical  precision,  into 
various  fantastic  shapes  ;  magnificent  palms,  with  their  fan- 
like  branches,  tower  many  feet  \n  the  air.  A  Palmetto,  a 
century  old,  is  pointed  out  as  a  curiosity.  The  old  Mission 
church  of  San  Gabriel  was  also  included  in  our  day's  excur- 
sion. The  cold  interior  contains  nothing  of  interest.  Dark 
oil  paintings  hang  grimly  against  the  roughly-plastered  walls. 
The  rude  gallery  at  the  rear  is  entered  by  an  outer  stone 
staircase.  But  four  of  the  six  bells  which  formerly  hung  in 
the  tower  are  still  there.  The  two  missing  ones  are  supposed 
to  have  been  carried  back  to  Spain  as  relics,  they  having  been 
cast  in  that  country.  The  beautiful  waving  pepper  trees  al- 
most hide  the  misty  old  building  on  the  outside.  The  old 
Spanish  woman  who  acts  as  guide  to  the  visitors,  and  the 
opening  and  closing  of  the  doors  during  certain  hours  of  the 
day,  closed  the  venerable  old  doors  most  indigriantly  upon 
our  backs,  and  refused  those  of  the  party  who  arrived  later 
an  admission.  However,  after  a  great  deal  of  persuasion,  ac- 
companied by  silver,  they  were  again  swung  open  and  the 
rude   interior   inspected. 


23 


I-.ETTEE.    -^XXX. 


Dear  Courier: — From  the  charming  city  of  Los  Angeles, 
with  its  beautiful  sunny  climate — the  Mecca  in  which  those 
blessed  with  ease  and  abundant  means,  can  bask  in  spring- 
like sunshine  and  escape  the  discomforts  of  snow  and 
ice  during  the  cold  winter  months — this  spot  which  excels 
in  graceful  beauty  and  general  attractiveness  —  yea,  from 
all  this  grandeur,  coupled  with  an  unfinished  lunch,  were  we 
most  unceremoniously  and  unnecessarily  torn,  Monday,  May 
17th,  to  make  the  12:50  train,  which  was  to  take  us  towards 
the  beautiful  Yosemite  Valley.  Again  the  sleeper  Tahoe,  which 
had  grown  dear  (?)  to  us  by  past  associations,  was  called 
into  requisition.  In  this  we  spent  the  following  night. 
Scarcely  an  hour's  ride  from  Los  Angeles  causes  a  wonderful 
transformation  in  our  surroundings.  The  beautiful  valley,  with 
its  wav}^  golden  fields,  is  exchanged  for  the  dry  desert  which 
is  brightened  only  by  the  abundant  sprinkling  of  the  yucca 
in  full  bloom,  and  a  few  strange  flowers  of  various  hues 
scattered  here  and  there.  At  6  p.  m.,  we  arrived  at  Mohave 
where  we  had  supper.  Atter  leaving  this  station  the  most  in- 
teresting part  of  the  trip  was  had  in  the  moonlight,  while 
standing  on  the  platform  with  a  kind  and  courteous  brake- 
man  ready  to  point  out  all  objects  of  interest.  Within  a 
very  short  distance  seventeen  tunnels — one  a  mile  and  half  in 
length — were  encountered.  As  we  emerged  from  these  gloomy 
vaults,  the  transition  into  the  outer  world  was  enchanting. 
Between  the  stations  Girard  and  Keene  is  the  famous  Loop, 
one  of  the  most  magnificent  samples  of  skilful  engineering. 
The  road,  after  winding  around  a  certain  mountain  for  more 
than  half  a  mile,  passes  through  that  same  mountain  by  means 
of  a  tunnel,  with  the  road  but  a  few  minutes  crossed,  right 
overhead.  The  approach  to  this  Loop,  with  the  bright  moon- 
light enveloping  the  earth  like  folds  of  graceful  drapery,  with 
myriads  of  sparkling  stars  dancing  in  the  firmament,  with  the 
wind  gently  swaying  the  branches  of  the  trees  to  and  fro, 
all  produced  a  multiplicity  of  ornament  which  it  is  utterly  im- 
possible   to   describe. 

At  the  station  of  Berenda,  which  was  reached  some  time 
during  the  night,  our  car  was  left  standing  in  melancholy- 
silence  upon  a  side  track,  which,  long  after  daylight  had 
broken    upon    us,    was   attached    to   the   train    coming   from    San 


24 

Francisco,  and  we  were  brought  to  Raymond,  the  point  from 
whence  stages  are  taken  for  the  valley.  We  were  still  minus 
our  breakfast,  but  expected  to  get  it  at  the  dining  station 
of  this  city,  therefore  our  first  desire  after  stepping  upon  terra 
firma  was  to  seek  the  long-coveted  meal.  We  looked  to  the 
right — we  looked  to  the  left — then  north,  south,  east  and  west 
— not  a  house  was  in  sight,  not  even  a  dug-out.  While  en- 
deavoring to  take  in  the  situation  as  calmly  as  possible,  our 
reverie  was  broken  by  a  musical  cry  of  ''Breakfast !  this  way, 
this  way."  Hastily  glancing  in  the  direction  from  whence  came 
this  welcome  strain,  we  spied  a  tent  with  an  annex  of  the  same 
material,  the  former  turning  out  to  be  the  dining  hall,  and 
the  latter  the  kitchen,  of  this  pretentious  edifice  1  Stepping 
inside  this  movable  lodge,  we  discovered  eight  tables  ladened 
with  the  necessaries  of  life,  hidden,  as  we  at  first  supposed, 
under  black  tarlaton,  but  which  when  raised  responded  to  the 
color  blue — this  chameleon-like  change  being  caused  by  a  fly 
stampede.  It  was  not  long  ere  the  place  was  christened  Fly 
Ranch,  and  a  historical  wag,  of  the  San  Francisco  party,  re- 
corded the  fact  that  the  place  was  originally  intended  for  a 
campmeeting,  but  the  Lord  not  coming,  it  was  decided  to 
convert  it  into  a  restaurant  tor  the  Raymond  Excursionists — 
that   it   was   more   profitable. 

After  our  primitive  breakfast  we  stationed  ourselves  in  close 
proximity  to  the  huge  stages  which  were  fully  equipped  tor 
the  long  and  tedious  journey.  There  was  no  difiiculty  to  find 
our  respective  seats,  as  they  had  all  been  selected  for  us  ere 
our  arrival.  Only  five  of  the  Raymond  party  occupied  seats 
in  the  one  in  which  your  correspondent  was  packed,  the  re- 
maining six  being  taken  by  four  gentlemen  from  the  east  and 
two  from  San  Francisco,  making,  with  the  driver,  a  party  of 
twelve.  Six  horses  were  necessary  to  initiate  this  load  into  the 
mysteries  of  Yosemite  staging.  The  road  was  so  level  and  in 
such  an  excellent  condition  that  we  began  to  treat  as  fables  those 
horrible  hackneyed  tales  of  this  valley,  but  long  ere  the  shades 
of  night  began  to  overtake  us  we  inwardly  confessed  that 
half  had   not  been   told    us. 

The  scenery  during  the  entire  ride  was  constantly  varied  : 
the  rolling  hills  thickly  wooded  with  beautiful  blooming  horse 
chestnut,  pine,  live  oak,  manzanita,  the  gently  undulating 
plains  dotted  here  and  there  in  the  landscape,  covered  with 
beds  of  purple,  blue,  and  golden;  the  graceful  mariposa,  the 
queen  of    the    wild    flowers,   appearing    in    the    different    garbs 


25 

of  white,  yellow  and  pink  ;  all  fhis  display  offered  a  pleasing 
contrast  to  the  wide  flat  sandy  stretch  of  the  Mohave  Desert. 
The  great  flume,  sixty-five  miles  in  length  which  is  a  V 
shaped  trough  for  carrying  timber  from  the  mountains  to  the  rail- 
road, was  an  interesting  feature.  The  water  flows  through 
this  passage  so  swiftly  that  the  sawed  timber  floats  down 
with  wonderful  rapidity.  These  troughs  are  as  useful  as  they 
are  numerous  in  the  Sierras.  The  noon-day  sun  began  to 
torment  us  with  its  most  scorching  rays.  The  dust  at  times  al- 
most hid  us  from  sight,  and  played  sad  havoc  with  us  and 
our  possessions.  The  horses  moved  at  such  a  snail-rate  pace, 
and  so  many  halts  were  made  for  their  benefit  at  the  num- 
erous rivulets  along  the  waj^,  that  many  ot  the  gentlemen 
started  out  on  foot,  while  we  of  the  gentler  sex,  with  sub- 
missive meekness,  continued  to  rock  from  side  to  side,  re- 
gardless of  the  increasing:  aches  and  pains.  The  splendid 
and  refreshing  dinner  at  Grant's  was  a  welcome  and  delightful 
break.  After  this  repast  we  again  climbed  into  our  ap- 
pointed places,  the  scenery  becoming  more  and  more  rugged. 
Staging  in  the  mountains  was  beginning  to  lose  its  poetry. 
Sharp  and  dangerous  curves  hanging  over  fearful  precipices, 
around  which  the  six  now  whirled  us  with  a  break-neck  ra- 
pidity, caused  the  most  courageous  to  become  speechless. 
Through  all  this  tedious  tumult  it  was  delightful  to  catch 
glimi)ses  of  the  picturesque  scenerj^  and  especially  to  regard 
with  vcTieration  those  noble  forest  trees.  Water,  too,  was  not 
wanting  to  add  its  charms  to  the  scene,  for  numerous  were 
the  released  mountain  rivulets,  which  otten  came  crashing 
over  the  rocks,  descending  several  hundred  feet;  and  where 
trees  or  rocks  had  fallen  across  their  path,  most  pleasing  min- 
iature water  falls  would  be  afforded,  their  gentle  spray  some- 
times kissing  our  dusty  faces  with  such  a  degree  of  affection 
as  would  remind  us  of  the  fact,  as  we  looked  at  our  compan- 
ions, that  were  slowly,  but  surely,  on  the  verge  of  being  con- 
verted into  terra  cotta  images.  But  all  things  have  an  end, 
so  had  our  first  day  of  thirty-nine  miles  of  staging.  We  were 
salely  landed  at  the  Wawona  House,  at  8  p.  m.,  a  dusty, 
tired,  hungry  party,  where  we  spent  the  night  of  May  18th, 
prior   to   our  arrival    in    the   valley. 


26 

Dear  Courier: — At  6:30  a.  m.,  in  the  morning  of  May  19th, 
after  a  refreshing  night's  rest,  and  a  breakfast  which  left  no 
room  for  fault-finding,  together  with  an  abundant  supply  of 
Faith  and  Hope  mixture,  we  were  once  more  prepared  to  con- 
tinue our  rough  journey  over  the  Sierras,  now  made  familiar 
to  us  by  one  day's  experience.  We  were  one  of  the  party  of 
thirty- three  pilgrims,  who  were  moving  to  and  fro  on  the 
piazza  of  the  beautiful  Wawoua  Hotel,  or  Clark's,  as  it  is 
more  familiarly  known,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  stages 
which  were  to  carry  us  twenty  six  miles  distant  into  the 
heart  of  the  great  Yosemite  Valley.  Ere  the  clock  struck 
seven  three  stages,  each  drawn  by  six  spirited  animals,  flew 
in  front  of  the  hotel  with  a  grand  sweep  and  flourish,  put- 
ting to  shame  the  timid-hearted  traveler.  All  were  soon  again 
snugly  huddled  up  against  each  other  in  their  respective 
places,  and  off  we  flew,  midst  the  farewells  and  good  uislies 
of  the  proprietors  and  their  aids.  Our  coach  on  this  mem- 
orable occasion  ^va8  a  grand  improvement  on  the  one  in 
which,  on  the  preceding  day,  we  had  been  tossed,  tumble*!  and 
slammed  until  our  muscles  were  stiff.  This  one  w.is  of  recent 
manufacture,  and  everything  bespoke  ease  and  comfort.  Amonir 
the  six  horses  into  whose  keeping  our  lives  were  anxiously 
entrusted,  was  a  little  grey  one  whose  imperious  manner  and 
cutting  gait  plainly  showed  a  perfect  indifference  as  to  whether 
school  kept  or  not.  He  at  once  attracted  notice  and  suspicion, 
but  the  dignity  and  kindliness  of  the  remaining  five  reassurd 
and  comforted  us,  as  well  as  the  skillful  handling  of  the  ribbons 
by  the  careful  and  experienced  driver,  at  the  crack  of  whose  who 
whip  they  bounded  lightly  up  the  winding  mountain  path,  passed 
the  solemn-looking  pines,  the  curiously-shaped  and  twisted 
manzanita,  the  old  oaks  — all  a  continuation  of  yester- 
day's scenery,  yet  so  bright  and  fresh  in  the  sweet  moun- 
tain air.  Our  course  lay  up  the  western  slope  of  tlie 
Sierra,  which  we  continued  to  climb  on  a  steep,  though 
easy  grade,  until  we  reached  summit  rock,  where  we  were  at 
an  elevation  of  over  six  thousand  feet.  Here  we  found  vege- 
tation scant,  and  snow  lying  around  in  good-sized  patches, 
while  the  giant  trees,  way  down  the  precipice,  appeared  like 
sprouts.  From  this  point  we  began  to  descend — the  views  of 
the  hilly  country  became  more  grand  and  |)icturosque  at  every 
turn — the   capricious   windings    of    the     road     would    sonietin)es 


27 

for  an  instant  hide  the  horses  from  our  sight.  Those  majes- 
tic primeval  beauties,  straight  as  arrows,  covered  with  luxur- 
iant foilage,  with  the  graceful  green  California  moss  lovingly 
clinging  around  the  trunk  and  branches,  present  a  picture 
peculiarly  grand  and  inspiring.  On  we  sped,  without  any  in- 
cident foreign  to  the  ordinary  routine,  until  the  Thirteen-mile 
house  was  reached,  where  it  is  customary  to  cJriange  horses 
when  going  into  the  valley.  The  malicious  little  grey  now 
began  to  show  his  colors,  and  to  such  an  extent  that  for  a 
few  moments  we  were  thrown  into  a  feverish  state  of  excite- 
ment. By  some  tricky  manoeuvre  four  of  the  six  horses 
were  thrown  on  the  ground,  while  the  remaining  two  strug- 
gled frantically  to  extricate  themselves  from  the  kicking  mass. 
Fortunatel}^  for  us,  the  stage  was  in  such  a  position  that  an 
immediate  upset  could  be  averted.  We  heard  the  cry  of  "jump," 
but  not  relishing  the  idea  of  leaping  several  feet  to  the  ground, 
with  the  stage  rocking  from  side  to  side,  we  paused  for  an 
instant,  when,  joy  to  behold  !  a  pair  of  strong  brawny  arms 
were  extended,  into  which  it  was  soon  our  turn  to  jump,  and 
we  were   safely   landed. 

The  scene  here  waS  greatly  enlivened  by  the  meeting  of 
tlie  three  stages,  bearing  those  who,  no  doubt,  inwardly 
tlianked  heaven  that  they  had  done  the  valley,  and  were  out 
of  it.  Our  couraoie  was  now  on  the  wane.  From  henceforth 
we  were  confident  our  faith  in  Yosemite  stage  horses  would 
bo  exceedingly  limited,  yet  scarcely  one-half  hour  after  our 
departure  from  this  point,  all  fear  was  for  the  time-being 
wij)ed  from  our  memory  by  the  bewildering  and  startling  rev- 
elations of  nature  which  sprang  up  from  every  side.  We  were 
being  gradually  schooled  for  the  ineffable  loveliness  of  Inspira- 
tion I^oint,  yet  when  the  sharp  curve  was  made  and  we  found 
ourselves  face  to  face  with  the  most  indescribable  vista  it  has 
ever  been  our  lot  to  behold,  we  found  ourselves  speechless — 
not  a  sound  was  heard.  It  was  all  far  beyond  our  fondest 
cx[)ectations.  What  a  crowning  grandeur  is  here  blended  ! 
No  matter  how  rough  and  tedious  the  journey  to  this  remote 
Art  Gallery  of  Nature,  the  treasures  here  depicted  more  than 
compensate  the  horrors  endured.  Save  the  rumbling  of  the 
stages  until  a  convenient  halting  place  was  reached,  a  solemn 
stillness  pervaded  every  portion  of  the  landscape.  Even  the 
clouds  seemed  to  have  gone  to  sleep  upon  the  towering  peaks. 
Neither  pen  nor  brush  can  ever  satisfactorily  bring  before  the 
mind's  eye   a     picture   of     this     Wonderland.     No   matter    how 


28 

bright  and  beautiful  it  is,  how  near  its  approach  to  nature 
may   be,   it  will  disappoint  when  compared  with  the   original. 

The  descent  from  Inspiration  Point  to  the  green  level  val- 
ley below  is  quickly  made.  The  first  of  the  numerous  falls 
which  attracted  our  attention  was  the  long,  narrow,  graceful 
Ribbon  which  playfully  gushes  from  the  side  of  that  ponderous 
mountain  of  rock  known  as  El  Capitan.  This  rock  is  3,300 
feet  high,  and  has  a  surface  so  smooth  and  regular  that  it 
must  strike  envy  to  the  heart  of  the  advertising  wretch, 
whose  brush  and  pencil  would  long  ere  this  have  profaned 
its  clear  bright  side,  did  not  the  law  stand  guard.  A  tree 
scarcely  visible  to  the  naked  eye,  and  which  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a  pressed  fern  leaf,  stands  on  this  rock  130  feet  high, 
and  is  nourished  by  a  quarter  acre  of  ground.  On  the  oppo- 
site side  is  the  Widows'  Tear  Fall,  so  called  because  its 
waters  sometimes  disappear  in  six  weeks'  time.  The  majestic 
Bridal  Veil  was  tumbling  and  roaring  with  ever-varying  de- 
gree,  covering  us  with   its  spray   as   we  drove   by. 

On  we  went  through  this  beautiful  valley,  which  is  one  un- 
broken chain  of  magnificence,  until  we  arrived  at  C'ook's,  one 
of  the  three  hotels  of  this  far-away  place.  Directly  opposite 
this  house  is  the  Yosemite,  (Grizzly  Bear,)  the  Queen  of  all  the 
Falls.  We  had  it  before  us  in  all  its  grandeur.  It  was  most 
copiously  fed  by  the  vast  supply  of  snow  upon  the  moun- 
tains ;  the  flow  of  water  was  terrific;  with  a  mighty  and 
constant  thud  it  kept  leaping  and  dashing  down  the  moun- 
tain side,  plunging  into  the  roaring  Merced,  which  forces  its 
noisy    course   so   grandly   through    the  valley. 


Dear  Courier:  —  What  an  insurmountable  barrier  seemed  be- 
twixt us  and  the  outer  world  when  we  at  last  found  ourselves 
safely  stored  away  in  the  remarkable  Yosemite  cave,  after 
passing  successfully  through  the  beautiful,  dangerous  and  mazy 
routine   of  the  sixty   miles  of  staging  ! 

Seated  on  the  veranda  at  the  Cook  hotel  on  the  evening  of 
of  our  arrival,  hedged  in  by  the  steep  surrounding  mountains, 
welcomed  by  the  stars  and  greeted  by  the  moon,  as  they 
brilliantly  and  coquettishly  emerged  from  their  hiding  places, 
spreading  a   mellow   glow   over   the  enchanted    vale — the   harmo- 


29 

nious  chords  of  the  grand  Yosemite  Fall,  mingling  its  music 
with  the  solemn  waving  and  rustling  of  the  branches,  all 
combined  to  produce  such  a  feelidg  of  insecurity  which  was 
akin  to  melancholy.  It  seemed  as  if  we  had  suddenly  dropped 
into  a  living  tomb  but  on  the  morrow,  when  freed  from  all 
fatigue,  we  took  a  sixteen-mile  drive  through  this  magnificent 
crevice,  we  felt  ourselves  phenomenally  invigorated  and 
aroused  to  an  indescribable  enthusiasm.  The  grandeur,  the 
massiveness  and  variety  of  scenery  excels  anything  we  have 
ever  seen — all  is  so  wonderfully   beautiful. 

Bright  shone  the  sun  on  the  radiant  afternoon  of  May  20th, 
when  we  visited  the  foot  of  the  Yosemite,  the  Cascade,  and 
the  Bridal  Veil  Falls,  reaching  the  latter  in  time  to  see  it 
gorgeously  arrayed  in  five  most  perfect  and  brilliant  rainbows, 
one  of  these  extending  far  out  over  the  surrounding  foliage. 
This  scene  alone  is  worth  a  visit  to  this  far-away  hollow,  and 
is  one,  when    once   seen,  can  never  be  erased    from   the  memory. 

The  appropriately-christened  pinnacles  of  the  sky-piled  ma- 
sonry, such  as  the  Three  Brothers,  Cathedral  Spires,  The  Sentinel, 
North  and  South  Pome,  together  with  a  countless  number  of 
others,  were  pointed  out  in  rapid  succession  by  the  indefatigable 
driver,  as  were  also  nature's  strange  and  grotesque  caricatures, 
such  as  the  Chief  of  the  Valley,  the  Old  Man  and  Woman,  a 
train  of  cars,  a  pair  of  boots,  birds,  and  animals,  all  producing 
boundless   amusement   as   we  passed  by. 

The  one  great  big  hobby  of  Yosemite  travelers  is  to  toil  up- 
ward from  the  green,  lovely  valley,  to  the  dizzy  height  of 
one  or  more  of  the  surrounding  mountains.  We  had  caught 
the  fever,  hence  ordered  a  steed  for  to-morrow's  cavalcade,  the 
objective  points  being  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls,  on  an  eminence 
several  thousand  feet  above   our  heads. 

Donning  our  soft  felt  hats,  with  which  we  provided  our- 
selves for  this  occasion,  when  visiting  South  J'ueblo,  and  with 
hearts  made  of  unyielding  texture,  together  with  boasted  her- 
culean strength,  we  were  prepared  to  take  our  airy  positions, 
not,  however,  before  taking  a  drive  to  that  magnificent  little 
sheet  of  water,  known  as  ^Tirror  Lake,  In  this,  one  of  the 
loveliest  parts  of  the  valley,  are  found  all  the  requisites  for  the 
picturesque.  The  lake,  with  its  pure  clear  water,  reflects  in 
an  inverted  position  the  sky,  trees,  rocks,  mountains  —  in  fact, 
all  surrounding  objects.  We  were  in  time  to  see  the  rising 
sun  glide  over  the  perpendicular  cliff  several  thousand  feet 
overhead.      This  was    a   most   gorgeous   and    awe-inspiring   pano- 


30 

rama.  From  here  we  drove  to  the  foot  of  the  rough  and 
rugged  trail,  where  we  found  our  horses.  These  animals  are 
raised  and  trained  only  for  these  mountain  trails ;  the}-  are  no 
good  in  the  valley,  as  we  found  by  sad  experience  on  the 
following   day. 

Beseeching  the  guide  to  give  us  a  good,  gentle  animal,  a  lit- 
tle grey  was  brought  to  fill  the  bill.  We  had  an  aversioii 
to  the  color,  but  allowed  ourselves  to  be  lifted  upon  its  back, 
when  like  a  streak  of  lightning  it  whirled  us  several  times 
around.  The  onward  feeling  was  still  predominant,  but  we 
begged  ior  a  less  spirited  beast  to  share  it  with  us.  It  was 
for  this  reason  that  Shot  Gun  was  forthwith  introduced  as  the 
gentlest,  slowest  quardruped  of  the  valley.  We  took  to  each 
other   philosophically. 

One  by  one,  some  twenty  in  number,  trudged  up  the  steep 
and  rocky  trail,  which  was  often  scarcely  more  than  fifteen 
inches  in  width,  and  so  close  to  the  edge  of  the  frightful 
precipice   that   at    times   we   forgot   to   breathe. 

We  reached  our  first  halting  place  at  the  top  of  Vernal 
Fall,  without  any  unusual  incident.  We  lingered  in  this 
neighborhood  until  our  time  was  more  than  exhausted.  We 
viewed  the  falls  from  various  positions,  never  knowing  a  feel- 
ing of  weariness.  Ilere  the  water  in  a  broad  sheet  rushes, 
foams  and  dashes  over  an  immense  table  rock,  into  a  huge 
caldron,  casting  its  feathery  spray  many  feet  in  the  air  The 
exposed  rocks  at  the  base  of  this  waterfall  are  completely 
covered  with  the  most  exquisite  moss;  rainbows,  too,  add  their 
charms  to  the  scene.  Mounting  again  our  faithful  little 
horses,  we  commenced  work  in  dead  earnest.  We  soon  found 
that  the  comparativel}^  easy  climbing  was  at  an  end.  We 
were  still  hundreds  of  feet  from  the  higher  falls,  and  a  per- 
ilous and  dangerous  aspect  was  brought  before  our  eyes,  when 
we  found  courage  to  raise  them  heavernvard  from  our  already 
confused  height.  Overhanging  us  were  immense  crags,  appar- . 
ently  ready  to  crush  us  into  atoms,  but  in  safety  we  were 
swung  backward  and  forward  up  to  the  coveted  spot.  Here 
we  found  a  neat  hotel,  known  as  the  ISnow  House,  opposite 
to  which  was  that  mighty  cascade,  the  noble  JS'evada  Fall  I 
Ilere  in  dazzling  fury  a  broad,  continuous  sweep  of  sparkling 
foam,  whirls  and  plunges  over  the  tace  of  a  huge  precipice. 
We  now  began  to  contemplate  the  deep  solem  valley  in  minia- 
ture. It  was  precisely  like  gazing  through  an  inverted  opera 
glass.     Huge  trees    resembled    shrubs ;   the     houses     dotted    here 


31 

and  there  appeared  like  irifancs'  toys,  while  the  winding 
Merced  was  proportionately  insignificant.  At  length  came  the 
final  struggle ;  it  was  time  to  begin  the  terrific  descent, 
wliich,  when  compared  to  the  ascent,  was  as  a  grain  of  mustard 
seed.  What  noble  fortitude  w\is  required  under  these  trying 
circumstances  !  Never  was  more  delicate  attention  lavished 
upon  beast  than  was  that  of  which  Shot  Gun  was  the  un- 
grateful recipient  on  this  memorable  afternoon,  for  in  spite  of 
all  tlie  endearing  terms  showered  upon  him,  he  would  tanta- 
lize us,  and  amuse  himself,  by  indulging  in  an  occasional  genu- 
ine stumble,  striking  terror  to  our  heart,  and  seriously  dam- 
aging our  courage  valves.  Inquiry  as  to  the  cause  of  this 
awkwardness  and  unsteadiness  of  limb  elicited  the  start- 
ling information  that  Shotty  was  given  to  occasional  naps, 
and  that  it  was  our  duty  to  see  that  he  was  kept  awake. 
This  contributed  much  to  the  cheerfulness  (  ?  )  of  the  occa- 
sion I  We  were  now  steadily  working  our  way  down  the 
steep  mountain  grade,  constantly  meeting  short,  sharp,  terrify- 
ing curves,  and  as  a  deep  yawning  chasm  lay  before  us,  poor 
Shot  Gun's  back  was  most  vigorously  beaten  to  rouse  him  from 
his  lethargy.  There  was  no  monotony  in  this  excursion. — 
Wlien  we  recovered  our  senses  sufiiciently  to  look  around  us, 
what  pleasant  surprises  loomed  uj)  on  all  sides  What  a 
succession  of  grand  and  lovely  scenes  would  at  times  imper- 
atively   demand    our  attention  ! 

How  the  terrified  countenances  of  the  companions  in  the 
rear  would  amuse  us  as  they  shot  woful  gazes  at  us,  when 
for  an  instant  they  dared  to  raise  their  orbs  trom  oft"  their 
horses'  ears;  but  any  gaiety  on  our  part  would  be  quickly 
checked  by  a  jerk  and  stumble  from  Shot  Gun,  who  counte- 
nanced   no   such    levity. 

What  memories  are  recalled  when  we  think  of  those  horse- 
back journeys  up  and  down  those  wearisome  trails.  How  our 
hearts  throbbed  as  our  horses  deliberately  and  leisurely  walked 
close  to  the  the  edge  of  the  narrow  path,  to  nip  the  over- 
hanging branches,,  suspending  us  between  heaven  and  earth 
in  the  uncomfortable  space  between  the  nose  and  the  saddle. 
How  encouraged  and  comforted  we  felt  when  the  faithful 
guide  came  to  our  rescue,  and  placed  us  more  securely  on 
our  perch,  assuring  us,  while  humorous  smile  illuminated  his 
face,  that  we  were  doing  nobly,  and  that  the  worst  would 
soon    be  over. 


32 

Dear  Courier: — After  a  copious  discussion,  in  which  the 
mountain  horrors  and  the  opinion  of  the  outside  world,  if  we 
would.,  or  would  not  venture  up  Glacier  Point,  were  carefully 
weighed,  we  decided  in  favor  of  the  latter,  and  fully  de- 
served the  punishment  we  received  for  again  undertaking  such 
a  foolhardy  expedition,  after  our  experience  of  yesterday's 
trail. 

The  tan-colored  beast  into  whose  care  our  life  was  entrusted 
on  this  occasion  rejoiced  in  the  sweet  name  of  Molly.  Un- 
like Shot  Gun  of  yesterday's  companionship,  she  was  a  sprightly 
walker,  keeping  us  in  a  constant  tremor  on  account  of  her 
eagerness   to    push   forward. 

In  justice  to  our  old  and  worthy  friend  Shot  Gun,  we 
take  pleasure  in  recording  the  fact  that  he  was  not  thus  de- 
risively named,  but  received  this  euphonious  cognomen  in  his 
younger  days,  when  he  was  given  in  exchange  for  a  so- 
called   weapon. 

The  trail  to  Glacier  Point  is  wider  and  less  rocky  than 
the  one  leading  to  the  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls,  but  the 
ascent,  3,000  feet  above  the  valley,  is  more  precipitous, 
in  fact  almost  perpendicular.  Ere  we  had  climbed  1,000  feet, 
we  found  that  we  had  nothing  more  than  an  intensified  rep- 
etition of  yesterday's  frolic.  Up  we  floundered  the  steep  and 
slippery  path,  until  we  arrived  breathless,  at  Union  Point, 
where  with  a  sigh  of  relief,  we  jumped  trom  Molly's  back  to 
allow  her  a  rest,  and  to  give  us  time  to  regain  our  senses, 
and  if  possible  enjoy  the  boundless  views  before  us.  What 
glorious  light  and  splendor  shone  all  around  this  marvelous 
valley  on  this  beautiful  May  morning  !  What  revelations  of 
nature  in  rarest  beauty  were  held  before  our  eyes  for  silent 
contemplation  1  How  beautiful,  how  majestic,  how  awe-inspir- 
ing 1  Yet  when  we  turn  away  from  it,  if  only  for  a  one  brief 
moment,  how  changed  our  feelings !  Then  we  recoiled  in 
terror  as  we  glanced  up  the  gloomy  cliff,  where  we  soon 
expected  to  wind  around,  in  the  solemn,  panting  procession. — 
We  rose  higher  and  higher— our  courage  sinking  lower  and 
lower.  We  could  now,  if  we  desired,  look  down  upon  the 
barren    tops   of  the   one-   and    two-thousand-feet  peaks. 

0,  the  sensations !  the  horrors  of  that  day !  Indescribable 
are  they  as  are  the  picturesque  surprises  which  spring  up  at 
every     turn.     On,     on     we     climbed,     often     turning     pale    and 


33 

speechless,  the  mind  refusing  to  fix  itself  upon  a  single  point ; 
but  there  was  no  turning  back ;  we  had  to  press  on. — 
Grander  views  were  constantly  opening  before  us,  but,  alas  ! 
we    enjoyed   them   not  ! 

Finally,  after  a  slow,  steady  zig-zag  climb  of  more  than 
two  hours'  duration,  we  stood  3,000  feet  above  the  valley, 
and  6,000  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Supported  by  the  iron 
railing,  which  extends  from  one  jutting  rock  to  another,  we 
had  before  us  a  grand,  full  sweep  of  the  greater  part  of  this 
mighty  abyss.  It  is  for  the  purpose  of  gaining  the  view 
from  this  advantageous  position  that  hundreds  of  Yosemite 
travelers  yearly  climb  the  steep  and  dizzy  trail.  No  one  can 
adequately  describe  this  scene.  Away  down  in  the  narrow 
grave  lay  Mirror  Lake,  now  contracted  into  a  mere  speck, 
while  the  tremendous  Yosemite,  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls  had 
the  appearance  of  long  silver  cords.  Beyond  Half  Dome  lies 
Cloud's  Rest,  which  extends  its  jutting  brow  2,000  feet 
higher  than  where  we  stood.  In  spite  of  all  the  grandeur  in 
in  which  we  found  ourselves  enveloped,  we  were  not  loth  to  leave 
the  scene.  A  restless  longing  for  the  depths  below  seized 
possession  of  our  soul ;  and  after  our  safe  return  to  Union 
Point,  where  we  arrived  cold  and  rigid  with  fear,  we  deter- 
mined to  give  Molly  a  holiday,  and  in  company  with  another 
undaunted  spirit  trudged  on  foot  for  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half, 
until  a  playful  mountain  stream  intercepted  our  progress. — 
When  we  were  upon  a  footing  in  which  we  had  greater  con- 
fidence tnan  in  that  of  Molly's,  we  began  to  realize  the  beau- 
ties of  this  gigantic  landscape.  Although  the  scorching  sun 
was  beating  its  hot  rays  most  unmercifully  in  our  already 
bronzed  faces,  we  cared  not,  and  our  increasing  fatigue  we  re- 
garded with  disdain.  What  a  blaze  of  glory  was  spread 
around,  above  and  below  us,  for  we  could  now  enjoy  the 
dazzling  blue  heavens,  so  richly  and  artistically  frescoed 
with  fleecy  clouds,  as  well  as  the  valley  with  its  exhaustless 
collection  of  treasures.  As  we  approached  the  green  level, 
we  concluded  to  mount  our  horses  again  for  a  nice  little  gallop 
through  the  valley.  It  was  now  that  Molly  showed  a  most 
treacherous  disposition  and  displayed  her  pent-up  emotions  in 
a  most  unlady-like  manner  We  had  evidently  insulted  her 
by  causing  her  to  come  down  the  steep  precipice  with  an 
empty  saddle  on  her  back,  and  she  was  determined  to  resent 
the  insult.  No  sooner  had  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  trail, 
when    with   surprising    and    terrific   speed  she    plunged   towards 


34 

the  stable  door,  pitching  us  most  unceremoniously  on  the 
ground.  Such  a  sudden  flight  to  earth  we  had  not  antici- 
pated.    This  equestrian  feat  closed  our  Yosemite  trail  periormances. 

At  six  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  were  on  our  way  out 
of  the  valley  in  rather  a  tattered,  battered  and  tattooed  con- 
dition. It  was  impossible  to  forget  for  one  moment  the  horse- 
back rides  of  the  preceding  days,  as  the  pitching  and  jolt- 
ing of  the  lumbering  stage  increased  the  one  hundred  and  fifty 
aches  and   pains   which  we   carried  with   us  as   souvenirs. 

We  again  enjoyed,  in  reverse  order,  the  panorama  of  scenes 
of  the  beautiful  Sierra  Nevada  mountains,  arriving  at  Clark's 
a  little  before  noon,  on  Sunday,  May  23rd.  Here  we  were 
thrown  into  a  state  ot  intense  excitement  by  the  startling  in- 
telligence that  one  of  the  stages  of  the  preceding  day  had 
been  upset,  and  that  some  of  our  party  were  among  the  unfor- 
tunates. The  accident  occurred  about  three  miles  from  Clark's 
Hotel,  the  ringleader  of  this  commotion  being  again  the 
young,  little,  inexperienced  grey  that  had  caused  the  tumultu- 
ous disturbance  at  the  Thirteen-mile  house  the  day  we  went  into 
the  valley.  It  appeared  that  he  being  either  annoyed,  restless  or 
treacherous,  began  to  kick,  which  in  an  instant  caused  a  terrific 
panic  among  these  easily-excited  beasts.  By  great  presence  of 
mind  the  cool-headed  driver  urged  the  upsetting  of  the  stage 
toward  the  mountain  side.  But  for  this  thoughtfulness  all 
would  have  undoubtedly  been  hurled  down  the  steep  precipice. 
The  maddened  horses  struggled  fiercely  for  freedom,  which 
one  by  one  they  succeeded  in  gaining,  continuing  in  their 
flight  until  bleeding,  foaming  and  almost  exhausted,  they 
reached  the  hotel.  Fortunately  a  clear  track  was  theirs.  Had 
this  not  been  the  case,  a  terrific  smash-up  would  have  been 
the  result.  This  accident  was  appalling  enough,  j-et  it  was 
miraculous  that  no  lives  were  lost.  Beyond  a  few  painful 
sprains   and  bruises,   no   very   serious   damage    was  done. 

After  lunch  in  the  afternoon  of  this  beautiful  Sabbath  day, 
in  company  with  five  carriage  loads  of  passengers,  we  drove 
eight  miles  distant  through  the  Mariposa  Grove,  to  view  those 
mammoth  forest  wonders — those  giants  of  the  west  that  have 
no  known   parallel. 

We  were  glad,  however,  when  this  day's  programme  was  at 
an  end.  We  had  had  a  very  hard  week,  and  we  now  dis- 
covered that  our  constitution  was  not  suflScienlly  rock-bound 
to   equalize   our   ambition. 

A    grieveous   headache   abbreviated   the   day. 


35 


LETTER,     XIII. 

Dear  Courier : — Three  heavy  knocks,  loud  enough  to~  disturb 
the  dead,  roused  us  from  our  slumbers  at  three  o'clock  in 
the  morning  of  Monday,  May  23rd,  warning  us  that  the  hour 
of  fate  had  come.  Sixty  minutes  were  permitted  us  to  prepare 
ourselves  for  the  remaining  thirty-four  miles  of  tedious  stag- 
ing which  still  lay  between  us  and  the  bustling  outside  world. 
In  the  sweet  solemn  stillness  of  this  morning  hour,  it  was  a 
doleful  subject  to  contemplate.  The  heart  of  a  doomed  '  man 
preparing  for  the  scatfold  could  not  leap  more  convulsively 
than  did  ours  when  the  thought  that  we  would  again  be 
knocked  around   like  a  ten-pin,   flashed   across   the   mind. 

At  4  a.  m,  the  stages  stood  before  the  door,  into  which  we 
were  soon  packed  with  military  precision — not,  however,  be- 
fore giving  an  anxious  glance  in  the  direction  of  the  horses, 
and  up  to  the  outside  seat,  where  in  company  with  two  lucky 
recipients  of  this  seat  of  lionor,  sat  that  exalted  dignitary, 
the  driver.  Both  horses  and  driver  seemed  to  be  in  periect 
harmony  with  each  other,  yet  unbounded  confidence  was 
sadly  wanting  in  us  ;  our  souls  had  become  weakened  and 
disheartened  by  the  appalling  accident  already  chronicled, — 
But  no  alternative  remained  ;  we  were  forced  to  put  up  with 
the  inevitable,  which  we  did  with  the  firm  resolve  that  if  we 
were  once  more  safe  out  of  this  region  we  would  give  it  a 
wide  berth  in  our  future  travels.  The  isolated  Wawona  hotel, 
so  beautiful  for  situation,  being  built  in  a  gentle  verdure-clad 
slope  bathed  by  the  waters  of  a  noisj'  mountain  stream,  was 
soon  lost  to  view,  and  the  sublime  repose  of  the  grand 
Sierras  demanded  our  entire  admiration.  The  light  of  the 
early  May  morning  was  beginning  to  peep  brightly  through 
the  great  wooded  hills,  and  the  cool  breeze  that  comes  before 
the  sun-rise  became  keenly  fragrant  with  the  odor  of  the  stately 
forest  trees.  The  exhilarating  mountain  air  refreshed  and  in- 
vigorated eveiy  faculty  ;  the  unclouded  sky  predicted  another 
fine   day. 

The  horses  trotted  so  briskly  and  carefully  along  the  beau- 
tifully picturesque  and  magnificent  road  that  at  times  all  danger 
was  lifted  from  our  minds,  and  we  thoroughly  enjoyed  the 
thrilling  and  brilliant  landscape,  so  richly  endowed  by  nature; 
but  all   would    be    suddenly   changed   at    the  slightest  crack   or 


36 

creak    of    the     old    stage — noises    uncomfortably   suggestive     of 
broken   limbs   and   cracked   skulls. 

The  sunshine  and  remarkably  fair  weather  which  greeted  us 
all  the  way  throuojh  our  Yosemite  travels,  we  found  possessed 
disadvantages  as  well  as  advantages.  Ere  this  day's  bright 
spring  sun  illuminated  the  heavens,  we  discovered  such  an 
increase  of  pulverized  earth  that  the  solemn  scriptural  injunc- 
tion of  ''Dust  thou  art  and  to  dust  shalt  thou  return,"  be- 
came disagreeably  ominous.  Great  clouds  curling  and  rolling 
above,  and  finally  imbedding  us,  caused  our  solemn  faces  to 
assume  a  most  ludicrous  aspect.  Thus  extravagantly  bedecked 
in  native  soil  we  reached  our  destination — the  finest  feature 
of  the  entire  trip  being  our  descent  to   Mother  Earth. 

How  grateful  we  were  when  we  were  once  more  on  a  firm 
toundation ;  v^hen  we  were  clear  of  the  risks  and  hardships 
of  staging,  and  had  achieved  the  magnificent  triumph  of  suc- 
cessfully   visiting   the   wo  rid- famed    Yosemite   valley  ! 

Before  our  final  departure  from  the  sration  of  Raymond,  which 
is  still  rocking  in  helpless  infancy,  we  partook  of  another 
meal  under  the  so-called  ''Fly  Ranch"  tent,  after  which  Ave 
piled,  without  any  regard  to  order,  into  the  cars.  The  iron 
horse  was  fretting  and  tuming  to  depart.  The  whistle  shrieked 
once,  twice,  thrice,  and  off  we  were  on  the  iron  path  to  San 
Francisco. 

The  scenery  all  along  the.  route  from  Berenda  to  Oakland  was 
interesting  and  attractive — magnificent  farming  land;  dotted 
here  and  there  with  those  luxuriant  western  landscapes,  orna- 
menting the  country.  At  Oakland  we  were  transferred  by 
boat  CO  San  Francisco,  where  we  arrived  after  a  calm  sail 
across   the   beautiful    bay. 

The  scene  on  the  arrival  of  the  boat  is  quite  inspiring  ; 
cabs  by  the  dozen  are  backed  up  in  long  rows,  while  the 
driver  of  each  vociferously  shouts  out  the  name  of  the  hotel 
he  represents.  Our  agent  being  on  hand,  we  had  no  difficulty 
in  finding  our  way  through  the  deafening  crowd  to  where  a 
cab  for  the  Palace  Hotel  was  awaiting  us,  and  it  was  not 
long  ere  we  were  ushered  into  the  brilliantly  lighted  recep- 
tion room  of  this  mammoth  hotel,  very  considerably  fagged 
out.  What  an  enchanted  scene  here  met  our  gaze  !  Elegantly- 
dressed  ladies  flitted  gaily  to  and  fro  to  the  music  of  the 
band  which  was  discoursing  sweet  productions  in  the  great 
glass-roofed  court  which  occupies  the  center  of  this  vast  struc- 
ture.    Our  toilets,  with    the    Yosemite     dust     still    clinging     to 


37 

them,  were  not  in  keeping  with  this  splendor,  yet  there  we 
were  kept  waiting  'neath  the  blazing  chandeliers  to  what 
seemed  to  us  an  interminable  length  of  time,  before  our  rooms 
were  assigned  to  us.  Although  twelve  hundred  people  can  be 
comfortably  accommodated  in  this  colossal  hotel,  which  is  an 
iron  building  seven  stories  high,  studded  with  several  hundred 
bay  windows,  and  is  said  to  be  the  most  stupendous  public 
house  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  so  great  is  the  constant  in- 
flux of  visitors   that   at   times  there  are  no  vacant   rooms. 

This,  however,  was  not  the  case  on  this,  the  evening  of 
our  advent  into  the  Golden  City,  for  after  a  long  search  a 
spacious  room,  elegantly  fitted  up  with  all  the  modern  ap- 
purtenances, was  sealed  to  our  name.  Here  we  (trunk  and 
self)  had  a  happy  reunion.  Onl}^  those  who  have  traveled  for 
one  week  in  the  Yosemite,  during  a  warm,  dusty  season, 
minus  this   traveling   auxiliary,  can   appreciate   such   a   meeting. 

With  an  elegant  supper,  which  gave  us  an  idea  of  how 
sumptuously  we  were  to  fare  during  our  '  short  sojourn  here, 
with  an  abundance  of  welcome  mail  matter  which  had  ac- 
cumulated during  our  wanderings  in  the  Sierras,  and  last, 
though  not  least,  with  a  good  refreshing  night's  rest,  we 
found  ourselves  fully  equipped  to  do  honor  to  this  far  -  away 
city.  As  it  takes  a  good  guide  to  give  a  genuine  flavor  to 
city  sight-seeing,  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  find  all  the  re- 
quisites in  our  good  friend,  Mr.  John  S.  llittell,  of  whose 
kindness   we   cannot   speak   in   terms   of  too   high    praise. 


Dear  Courier  : — 9:30  a.  m.  on  the  morning  after  our  arrival 
in  the  beautiful  city  of  the  Golden  Gate,  found  us  saunter- 
ing leisurely  along  the  grand  and  crowded  thoroughfares  of 
this  remote  place,  now  made  so  easy  of  access  by  a  most 
wonderful  net  work  of  metal.  W"e  soon  discovered  that  every- 
thing was  carried  on  on  a  gigantic  scale — everything  was 
teeming  with  life,  business  and  beauty.  Its  streets,  which  are 
beautifully  wide,  are  lined  on  both  sides  with  magnificent, 
costly  and  colossal  buildings,  that  will  compare  very  favorably 
in  architectural  splendor  with  the  massive  structures  in  the 
cities  east  of  the  Rocki6s,  differing  only  in  the  materials  used 
for  their  construction.  Here  iron  and  wood  are  chiefly  used, 
as  they   are   said    to   possess   a   greater     security     against     earth- 


38 

quakes  than  brick  or  stone.  That  enterprise  responds  here 
quickly  and  promptly  to  all  the  requirements  ol  the  public, 
is  clearly  demonstrated  in  its  mammoth  hotels,  and  its  won- 
derful cable  roads.  Eastern  visitors  need  not  have  the  least 
concern  in  regard  to  the  nature  of  the  accommodations  that 
await  them ,  for  in  every  street  are  found  extensive  hostelries, 
many  ot  which  have  a  world-wide  reputation.  Some  of  the 
oldest  and  most  important  maintain  family  characteristics. — 
These  see,  and  care  little  for   transient   business. 

Although  part  of  this  city  of  mush-room  growth  reclines 
gracefully  on  numerous  steep  hills,  there  are  quarters,  par- 
ticularly in  the  business  portion,  where  scarcely  a  quarter  of 
a  century  ago  there  existed  nothing  more  than  huge  drifting 
sand  banks ;  and  many  of  the  buildings  on  the  level  ground 
are  on  a  foundation  of  piling.  Water,  too,  at  the  advance 
of  civilization,  has  been  driven  back  to  make  room  for  beau- 
tiful   avenues   and   costly  structures. 

The  cable  road,  which  can  claim  this  city  as  its  birth- 
place, was  invented  especially  for  the  purpose  of  overcoming 
the  steep  elevations,  although  it  is  equally  successful  on  level 
ground.  The  ride  up  the  perpendicular  hill  called  Telegraph, 
we  took  in  perfect  safety  and  with  the  greatest  speed  imagin- 
able. As  you  rise  you  seem  to  hang  in  the  air  over  the 
city.  From  the  tower  on  the  hill  you  have  a  grand  pan- 
oramic view  of  the  city  and  its  environs.  Nature  has  indeed 
lavished  many  gifts  on  the  distant  state  of  California,  yet 
the  most  wonderful  and  important  of  all  is  the  magnificent 
San  Francisco  Bay,  which  joins  the  waters  of  the  blue  Pacific 
at  the  far-famed  Golden  Gate.  In  its  waters  lie  the  islands 
of  Goat,  Angel  and  Alcatraz.  The  latter  is  beautifully  ter- 
raced,  and  is   a   strongly-fortified   island. 

Another  never-to-be  forgotten  day  and  night  view  was  had 
from  that  aristocratic  elevation  known  as  Nob  Plill.  Here  are 
tound  the  palatial  residences  of  the  railroad  Croesuses,  which 
are  an  attraction  in  themselves.  The  homes  on  these  steep 
hills  required  enormous  labor  and  expense,  while  the  climbing 
up  to  them  on  foot  is  a  back-breaking  undertaking,  as  we 
found   by   experience. 

In  the  popular  pleasure  resort  known  as  Woodward's  Gar- 
dens, we  spent  several  very  pleasant  hours.  The  aquarium 
here  is  especially  fine.  The  collection  of  animals  peculiar  to 
California  afford  amusement  to  both  old  and  young,  particu- 
larly  its   huge   grizzly  bear,   which    is   a    rare   attraction. 


39 

A  morninc;  ride  to  the  Clift'  House,  through  the  Golden, 
Gate  Park,  was  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  features  of  our 
visit  to  the  coast.  The  Park  contains  over  one  thousand 
acres  of  land.  What  was  formerly  a  bleak  waste  of  sand  and 
scraggy  hillocks  has  been  wonderfully  converted  into  a  veri- 
table paradise.  The  trees,  shrubs,  lawns,  and  artistically  ar- 
ranged flower  beds,  show  careful  and  intelligent  supervnsion. — 
The  smooth  green  sward  is  kept  so  closely  mown  that  it  re- 
sembles velvet.  This  must  be  carefully  irrigated  to  keep  it 
thus  arrayed.  The  magniiicent  conservatory  is  filled  with 
many  rare  specimens  of  horticulture.  The  Garfield  monument 
rests  upon  a  mound,  in  the  center  of  an  open  space,  from 
which  point  several  neat  paths  radiate.  An  inscription  on 
this  statue  informs  the  beholder  that  it  was  '^lirected  b}^  the  Of- 
ferings of  a  Grateful  People."  The  landscape  gardener  has  made 
several  gigantic  representations  in  flowers  in  this  neighbor- 
hood. 

Before  we  reached  the  Cliff  House  we  drove  by  a  tract  of 
sand  as  yellow  and  barren  as  the  Sahara.  This,  too,  will,  no 
doubt,  some  day  be  redeemed  from  its  original  condition  by 
an    ingenious  people. 

Opposite  the  Cliff  House,  in  the  ocean,  are  two  huge  rocks 
which  nature  seems  to  have  designed  expressly  for  the  hun- 
dreds of  seal  monsters  which  congregate  around  them.  These 
strange  animals  of  the  sea,  so  entirely  devoid  of  all  grace,  beauty 
and  musical  accomplishments,  apparently  lead  a  most  miser- 
able life.  They  seem  to  be  a  most  war-like  and  gossippy 
family,  each  one  struggling  and  fighting  for  the  mastery. — 
Their  unearthly,  piercing  noise  goes  beyond  description.  It  is 
a   mixture   of  a    howl,   bark   and    grunt. 

The  Pacific  ocean,  as  seen  from  the  piazza  of  this  hotel, 
presents  a  view  superlatively  grand.  There  it  lay  before  us 
so  beautiful  and  calm,  yet  at  times  slightly  ruffled,  of  a 
lovely  indigo  blue,  upon  which  the  rays  of  the  splendid  sun 
danced   most    gracefully. 

On  a  hill  back  of  the  Clift'  are  the  Sutro  Heights.  Here 
Mr.  Sutro,  the  millionaire  of  Mine  Tunnel  fame,  spends  part 
of  his  time  in  a  little  cottage  muffled  by  a  heap  of  shrub- 
bery, which,  however,  is  soon  to  be  supplanted  by  a  magnificent 
palace,  for  the  reception  of  which  the  grounds  are  already  laid 
out,  and  flowers  of  every  variety  bloom  in  extraordinary  pro- 
fusion. An  over-abundance  of  cheap  statuary  destroys  the 
otherwise   pleasing   aspect   of    this   luxuriant   spot. 


40 

Our  ride  back  was  over  the  Point  Lobos  road,  from  which 
we  had  a  view  of  the  Military  Presidio  and  the  Golden  Gate, 
that  beautiful  portal  of  the  setting  sun. 

Oakland,  so  called  from  the  lovely  Calitornia  oak-groves 
which  once  abounded  here,  is  a  fast  and  beautiful  growing 
city  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay.  It  resembles  San  Fran- 
cisco so  closely  in  its  streets  and  buildings,  that  the  two 
cities  may  well  be  called  twin  sisters.  In  its  beautiful  ceme- 
tery we  saw  handsomely-polished  marble  and  granite  monu- 
ments, and  numerous  costly  monumental  chapels,  but  these 
works  of  the  sculptor  received  only  a  passing  notice,  while 
the  gardener's  skill  and  taste  drew  from  us  exclamations  of 
surprise.  Hedges  of  the  most  beautiful  roses  line  both  sides  of 
the  long  avenues,  while  beds  of  the  lovely  marguerite  bloom 
with  unsurpassing  beauty.  A  solemn,  lonely  procession  reminded 
us  of  the  fact  that  we  were  in  the  city  of  the  dead,  other- 
wise we  should  not  have  been  able  to  associate  death  with 
this  lovely  spot. 


Dear  Courier  : — The  almond-eyed  oddities  of  San  Francisco  that 
cluster  in  the  quarter  known  as  China  Town  are  worthy  in 
themselves  a  long  journey  to  visit.  They  occupy  a  considerable 
part  of  the  heart  of  this  metropolis,  and  number  in  the 
neighborhood  of  thirtv  thousand  souls.  The  traveler  can  here 
form  a  very  fair  idea  of  the  life  and  appearance  pf  things  in 
the  Celestial  Empire,  without  being  put  to  the  expense  and 
inconvenience  of  making  a  trip  around  the  world  —  another  of 
the  many  advantages  that  only  the  rich  city  of  San  Francisco 
can  offer.  So  completely  foreign  do  you  find  everything  in 
connection  with  these  John  Chinamen  that  you  can  scarcely 
realize  that  you  are  on  American  soil,  and  not,  as  all  appear- 
ances indicate,  in  Shanghai  or  Hong-Kong.  The  principal  thor- 
oughfare of  China  Town  is  Dupont  street.  Here  are  found 
numerous  stores  filled  with  exquisite  bits  ol  Chiuoiserie,  elabo- 
rate embroidery,  splendid  carving  in  wood  and  ivory — all  dan- 
gerous baits  for  the  tourist's  purse,  which  soon  grows  painfully 
slender  as   the  days  go  by. 

In   company    with   a   party   of    four,   conducted     by     the     ex- 
police  officer,  McKenzie,  we     visited    their    haunts   after    dark, 


41 

and  the  unpleasant  sights  seen  here  can  never  be  forgotten. — 
After  going  into  their  curious  groceries,  where  everything 
they  have  for  sale  is  imported,  even  to  live  fish  and  birds — 
their  butcher  shops,  where  you  are  startled  to  find  for  sale 
that  which  the  civilized  butcher  considers  refuse — their  drug 
stores,  where  the  medicine  consists  of  herbs,  snakes,  lizards, 
bulbs  of  lilies — their  restaurants,  with  their  gorgeously  deco- 
rated balconies,  with  lanterns  and  inscriptions —after  seeing 
all  this  you  are  fully  prepared  to  enter  the  private  labyrin- 
thian  passage,  which  will  bring  you  through  the  green  room 
of  the  theatre,  and  from  thence  on  the  stage.  Naturally 
one  would  suppose  that  such  an  intrusion  would  interfere 
not  only  with  the  drama,  but  also  with  the  audience.  N'ot 
so,  however.  Everything  is  strange  and  extraordinary  with 
these  people.  It  was  plain  to  be  seen  b\'  the  manner  in 
which  the  house  was  packed,  that  the  Chinese  love  their 
theatre.  The  men  occupy  the  pit  and  keep  their  hats  on, 
while  the  women  are  huddled  together  in  a  place  by  them- 
selves up  on  the  gallery.  Chinese  etiquette  resents  the  ming- 
ling of  the  sexes.  The  stage  is  a  dreary,  desolate-looking 
place.  The  fixtures  consist  of  a  few  chairs  and  a  table. — 
There  is  no  drop  curtain,  or  scenery  of  any  kind.  The  or- 
chestra occupies  that  portion  of  the  stage  back  of  the  actors, 
and  the  performers  smoke  and  sip  tea  when  disengaged.  The 
music  is  not  of  the  kind  that  *'will  soothe  the  savage-breast," 
but  it  will  set  your  teeth  on  edge  and  cause  you  to  start 
involuntarily.  Their  costumes  are  beautiful  and  costly,  and 
their  star  actors  receive  as  high  as  from  two  to  four  thous- 
and dollars  per  annum— so  our  guide  informed  us,  but  we 
failed  to  detect  the  star.  In  our  estimation  they  were  all 
alike — all  equally  ridiculously  silly  and  childish.  One-half 
hour  of  the  din,  clatter,  clamor  and  whining  of  the  theatre, 
for  which  luxury  we  paid  fifty  cents,  was  sufficient  to  cause 
our  partj^  to  long  tor  a  transition  state,  with  the  hope  that 
it  would  be  a  step  toward  something  better.  Such,  however, 
was  not  the  case,  for  the  opium  dens  were  next  on  the  list. 
In  the  two  we  visited  we  saw  young  and  old  men  given  to 
this  deplorable  habit — some  completely  stupified  under  the  in- 
fluence  of  the    narcotic. 

The  most  remarkable  part  of  China  Town  is  the  manner 
in  which  these  foreigners  live.  It  is,  indeed,  marvelous  how 
they  thrive  in  these  low  rooms,  impregnated  by  the  most  nau- 
seating   odors.     Some  of    them  actually   live    three  stories   under 


42 

ground.  In  going  through  these  cellars  we  were  nearly  suffo- 
cated in  the  close  four  air.  Personally  the  Chinamen  are  fault- 
lessly clean.  This  explains  why  they  can  keep  healthy  in 
places    where  the  sun   and   fresh  air   never   penetrate. 

In  the  Joss  Houses  or  Chinese  Churches,  we  saw  their  hea- 
then manner  of  worship.  The  altars  are  decorated  in  a  cheap 
gaudy  style,  with  occasionally  a  costly  piece  of  carving  repre- 
senting  some   hideous   god. 

In  spite  of  their  wonderful  power  of  machine-like  endurance, 
these  Mongolians  cannot  live  forever,  hence  a  funeral  procession 
through  Chinadom  is  not  an  uncommon  occurrence.  Of  course 
these  are  only  preliminary  funerals,  for  after  a  certain  length 
of  time  the  bones  of  the  dead  are  taken  to  China.  During 
our  brief  visit  we  saw  two  of  these  peculiar  processions.  It  is 
the  duty  of  one  of  the  friends  of  the  deceased  to  sit  on  the 
hearse  with  the  driver,  whose  business  it  is  to  throw  slips  of 
paper,  representing  money,  along  the  route,  to  keep  the  devil 
away  from  the  coffin.  The  mourners  in  the  various  cabs  were 
enjoying  themselves  in  smoking  and  watching  the  people  as 
they  passed  through  the  crowded  streets.  With  the  exception 
of  the  hearse,  there  was  nothing  connected  with  this  line  of 
cabs   that  suggested  a   funeral. 

It  seems  an  utter  impossibility  for  this  inferior  people  to  adopt 
the  habits  of  those  by  whom  they  are  surrounded,  so  com- 
pletely are  their  own  stamped  upon  them.  That  they  are  not 
an  ignorant  people  is  easily  proven  in  their  stores,  where  you 
will  find  shrewd,  intelligent  business  men.  We  learned  from 
those  who  have  had  extensive  dealings  with  them,  that  they 
are  perfectly  square  and  fair  in  all  their  transactions.  They  are 
skilled  mathematicians,  which  enables  them  to  deal  with  the 
American  public,  although  they  cannot  speak  the  language  very 
fluentlj^  Their  own  unattainable  dialect  almost  distracts  one. 
It  is  said  that  che  greatest  evil  which  exists  among  them  is 
their  penchant  for  white  children.  Little  babes,  we  are  told, 
frequently  disappear. 


Dear  Courier : — The  city  of  San  Francisco  has  to  offer 
among  its  many  attractions  numerous  large  and  well-appointed 
theatres  for  the  benefit  of  the  amusement-loving  people.  In 
the  beautiful  Baldwin  we  heard  Lawrence  Barrett,  supported 
by    an    excellent    company,    in    his    unsurpassed     impersonation 


43 

of  Elliot  Grey  in  the  charming  play  of  Rosedale.  In  the 
Tivoli  two  pleasant  evenings  were  spent  in  listening  to  Opera 
Boufie,  in  which  the  San  Francisco  favorite,  and  talented 
artiste,  Helene  Dingeon,  very  charmingly  and  gracefully  took 
the  leading  part.  In  the  California,  The  Golden  Giant,  one 
of  those  April-like  productions,  which  cause  on  a  most  pro- 
digious scale,  sunshine  and  showers  at  most  uncomfortable  in- 
tervals, tried    its   magic  effect   upon    us. 

Although  our  time  in  San  Francisco  was  exceedingly  lim- 
ited, so  carefully  was  our  programme  arranged  by  our  kind 
resident  friend,  that  we  saw  not  only  much  that  was  of  in- 
terest in  the  city,  but  enjoyed  several  delightful  excursions  to 
its  environs.  Ferry  boats  of  a  superior  pattern  and  most 
luxuriantly  fitted  up,  are  constantly  plying  the  waters  of  the 
magnificent  bay.  On  the  morning  of  May  28th  we  sailed 
across  this  inland  sea,  to  the  beautifully  situated  and  favorite 
sea-side  resort,  Saucelito,  where  we  had  spread  before  us  ev- 
erything which  could  gratify  the  eye  and  taste.  This  place 
is  the  headquarters  of  all  the  Yacht  Clubs,  and  has  some  of 
the  finest  homes  in  the  State.  From  here  we  had  a  most  sup- 
erb view  of  the  beautiful  stretch  ot  water  before  us.  It  was 
truly  a  scene  worthy  of  contemplation.  The  day  was  perfect,  as 
are  all  the  days  in  the  Golden  State  at  this  season  of  the 
year.  The  glorious  sun  kept  ascending  to  a  loftier  height, 
until  the  surroundings  were  set  aflame  with  extraordinary 
splendor.  Yet  there  was  an  absence  of  life  which  gave  to  this 
hill    an    indescribable   air  of  solitude   and   desertion. 

In  the  inviting  suburb  of  Berkeley  we  saw  the  handsome 
University  buildings  and  the  institution  for  the  the  deaf,  dumb 
and  blind.  From  here  we  passed  through  a  highly-cultivated 
country,  on  a  horse  car  line  which  brought  us  to  Piedmont, 
noted  for  its  medicinal  springs.  The  grounds  in  which  these 
walled-up  waters  are  found,  are  one  mass  of  floral  beauty.  The 
stranger  is  strikingly  reminded  of  his  duty  by  the  following 
characteristic  notice :  "The  flowers,  ferns  or  shrubbery  in  these 
grounds  do  not  belong  to  you.  Do  not  pick  or  mutilate  them." 
As  true  Christian  lovers  of  law  and  order  we  reverenced  the 
decree,   hence   came   away    without   a   souvenir. 

At  Alameda,  a  great  Sunday  bathing  resort,  we  witnessed  a 
genuine  western  Sunday.  The  season,  however,  was  not  far 
enough  advanced  for  the  usual  number  or  bathers  to  make 
their  appearance,  yet  those  that  were  venturesome  had  a  large 
audience. 


44 

On  Monday  morning,  May  31st,  the  day  observed  as  Decora- 
tion Day,  when  the  beautiful  city  of  San  Francisco  was  brilliantly 
crowded  with  gay  and  handsome  military  and  cavalrymen, 
when  numerous  bands  were  playing  mournful  music,  and  huge 
wagons  ladened  with  gorgeous  flowers  destined  to  ornament 
the  lonely  graves  of  the  fallen  brave,  were  passing  throuo;h 
every  street — during  all  this  commotion  fate  decreed  that  we 
should  continue  our  mapped-out  journey  and  proceed  on  our 
way  near  to  the  quaint,  dreamy  sea-side  resort  of  Monterey. 
Our  course  lay  through  the  beautiful  Santa  Clara  Valley, 
which  is  considered  one  of  the  richest  and  most  picturesque 
in  the  world.  The  land  is,  for  the  greater  part,  perfectly 
level,  and  the  growth  ot  grain  and  grass  is  astounding;  while 
the  flowers,  both  cultivated  and  wild,  grow  in  masses,  and 
are  of  such  a  size  and  beauty  of  color  as  to  cause  wonder 
and  astonishment.  The  California  .  live  oak — a  low-branching, 
far-spreading  tree — gives  to  the  country  a  lovely  park-like  ef- 
fect. In  this  valley  the  traveler  can  get  the  best  glimpse  ot* 
the  agricultural  wealth  of  the  State  as  well  as  of  the  pic- 
turesque beauty  of  its  scenery.  Menlo  Park,  the  chosen  site 
of  the  San  Francisco  millionaires,  is  almost  hidden  by  mag- 
nificent trees  and  shubbery.  Senator  Stanford's  stock  farm 
here  is  the  marvel  of  the  country.  The  horses  from  this 
farm  bring  fabulous  prices,  and  well  may  they.  For  California 
horses  in  general  are  the  most  beautiful  we  have  ever  seen. 
What  then  must  those  be  like  that  are  reared  in  luxury,  as 
are   those  of  Menlo    Park. 

San  Jose  (pronounced  San  Hosay,)  called  the  Beautiful  city, 
we  reached  at  noon.  We  spent  several  delightful  hours  in 
this  appropriately-named  place.  It  is  noted  particularly  for 
its  magnificent  drives,  its  lovely  shade  trees,  and  last,  though 
not  least,  for  its  wonderful  cherries.  We  visited  a  cherry 
ranch  where  we  bought  five  pounds  ot  this  luscious  fruit, 
which  was  of  such  an  unusual  size  compared  to  the  Lebanon 
county  cherry,  that  were  we  to  give  dimensions  we  might 
endanger  our  reputation  for  truthfulness.  Our  drive  took  us 
out  the  historical  avenue  called  the  Alameda,  the  drive-way 
between  this  city  and  Satita  Clara.  It  is  bordered  by  a  dou- 
ble row  of  trees,  and  many  beautiful  homes,  with  artistically 
arranged  yards,  may  be  seen  on  both  sides  of  the  road.  We 
drove  out  as  far  as  the  ITniversity  of  the  Pacific,  and  found 
here  a  beautiful  structure,  surrounded  by  a  large  lawn.  It 
was   Commencement    Day,    and   from  the     benches,  chairs,   table 


45 

and  organ  whicli  we  saw  in  the  j^arcl,  we  concluded  that 
part  of  the  exercises  were  held  in  the  open  air.  The  State 
Normal  school  is  located  at  San  Jose.  It  is  a  large  brick 
building,  situated  in  the  center  of  twenty-seven  acres  of  land. 
An  immense  establishment  called  The  San  Jose  Canninir 
House,  does  an  enormous  business  in  the  canning  line.  We 
found  this  city  exceedingly  interesting.  It  surpassed  Los  An- 
geles in  climate  and  in  its  variety  of  fruit,  for  here  peaches, 
apricots,  plums,  prunes,  oranges,  as  well  as  cherries,  grow  to 
a  wonderful  perfection,  while  its  wealth  of  trees,  flowers  and 
shrubbery    is   equal    to   that  seen   anywhere. 

A  few  hours'  ride  from  this  city  brought  us  to  our  des- 
tination, viz :  the  Del  Monte  Hotel,  situated  one  mile  from 
Monterey, 


LETTER    Xl-VI. 

Dear  Courier: — The  beautiful  day  of  May  31st  was  rapidly 
drawing  to  a  close  when  we  arrived  at  the  Del  Monte  Hotel, 
one  of  the  most  delightful  winter,  ;is  well  as  summer,  resorts 
of  the  Pacific  Coast.  This  house,  constructed  in  modern 
Gothic  style,  is  situated  in  an  extensive  park  containing 
over  one  hundred  acres  of  land,  and  is  within  the  sound  of 
the  waters  of  Monterey  Bay.  The  approach  to  it,  on  the 
stately  and  elegantly-macadamized  avenue,  with  the  balmy  re- 
freshing breeze  fanning  the  atmosphere,  presents  a  veritable 
Paradise  of  foliage  and  flowers.  Its  dazzling  splendor  of 
floral  display  defies  description.  Here  are  tropical-plants  in- 
numerable, while  the  heliotrope,  honey-suckle,  rose-bushes, 
geraniums  and  running  vines  ladened  w^ith  a  most  extrava- 
gant profusion  of  flowers  clamber  adventurously  to  the  dizzy 
height  of  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet.  The  Cacti  bed  is 
a  study  for  those  for  whom  botany  has  a  charm.  Here  may 
be  found  every  known  varietj^,  many  of  them  in  gorgeous 
bloom,  carefully  and  tastefully  arranged.  Fuchsias  grown  into 
sprightly  trees,  with  large  and  most  perfect  flowers,  are 
abundant.  In  fact,  in  this  highly-endowed  locality  all  trees, 
shrubs  and  flowers  attain  a  wonderful  perfection  of  luxuriance. 
The  temperature  is  so  charming  that  plants  from  every  zone 
grow  side  by  side  with  remarkable  vigor  and  harmon}'. — 
Here  also  with  intelligent  and  skillful  management  the  liv- 
ing-growing  flowers  are  fashioned    into   the  most  marvelous  and 


46 

artistic  designs,  the  chief  of  which  at  present  is,  the  unique 
floral  picture  representing  the  Grand  Army  badge,  which  is 
intended  to  commemorate  the  visit  of  the  G.  A.  R.  to  Mon- 
terey, during  the  present   summer. 

Underneath  the  spreading  oak,  the  pine  and  cedar,  are 
found  extensive  croquet,  lawn  tennis  and  archery  grounds, 
while  swings,  bowling  alleys,  a  skating  rink,  and  numerous 
square  sand  plots  neatly  fenced  in  for  the  benefit  of  the  lit- 
tle ones,  where  they  can  amuse  themselves  with  their  infant 
utensils,   are   also   among  its  attractions. 

The  Maze,  that  little  nook  of  perplexity,  so  intricately  ar- 
ranged with  hedges  of  arbor  vitse  as  to  cause  those  who  enter 
within  its  precincts  boundless  amusement  coupled  with  extraordi- 
nary exercise  in  their  efforts  to  find  the  center  where  benches 
are  provided  for  those  who  grow  weary  and  foot-sore  in  the  / 
struggle,  atlbnled  us  a  satisfactory  share  of  sport.  The  bathing 
pavilion  constructed  at  a  cost  of  seventy-five  thousand  dollars, 
is  situated  on  the  sandy  beach  about  a  ten  minutes'  walk 
from  the  hotel,  and  is  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  prefer  a 
warmer  temperature  than  the  surf  can  give,  and  also  for  those 
who  desire  to  take  lessons  in  swimming,  from  the  teacher, 
Prof.  Moss,  who  is  always  on  hand  whenever  his  services  are 
requested.  Although  the  Del  Monte  grounds  contain  a  thou- 
sand-and-one  attractions,  they  do  not  in  the  least  detract  from 
the  beauty  of  the  hotel,  which  is  in  itself  a  model  of  loveli- 
ness. As  we  entered  the  spacious  reception  room,  on  the  eve- 
ning of  our  arrival,  we  found  it  beaming  with  a  home-like 
security.  Iti  the  large  open  fire  place  neatly  brushed  and  pol- 
ished, lay  crackling  and  blazing,  large  logs  of  wood,  which 
gave  to  the  room  an  amazing  brightness;  and  as  the  shades 
of  night  enveloped  the  earth  the  brilliantly-illuminated  interior 
presented  such  a  spectacle  of  beauty  and  animation  which  it 
would   be   difiicult   to   surpass. 

The  day  following  our  arrival  we  took  a  seventeen-mile 
drive  through  the  quaint  town  of  Monterey,  and  along  the 
picturesque  shore  of  the  varied-hued  waters  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  Monterey  is  probably  the  oldest  town  of  the  State ;  it 
consists  almost  exclusiv^ely  of  white-washed  adobes,  or  mud 
houses,  adorned  with  green  shutters.  Its  interesting  abandoned 
buildings  of  historical  fame  were  pointed  out  in  rapid  suc- 
cession by  our  extremely  garrulous  driver,  who  made  himself 
odious  by  his  eagerness  to  regale  us,  whenever  an  opportunity 
presented     itself,   with    incidents    of    his    life,  which,   however, 


had    too     much    of    the     manufactured    flavor    about    them     to 
arouse    much    enthusiasm. 

A  large  wooden  cross  near  the  bridge  in  the  town,  marks 
the  landing  place  of  the  missionary  father,  Junipero  Serra,  in 
the  year  1770.  From  this  point  the  road  continues  through 
shady  woods  full  of  enchanting  beauties,  until  Moss  Beach 
is  reached ;  a  little  further  on  are  rocks  upon  which  cluster 
hundreds  of  seals,  and  finally  Cypress  Point,  where  a  hair 
pin  curve  is  made.  From  here  a  most  enjoyable  view  is  had 
of  the  two  bays,  Monterey  and  Carmelo.  The  grove  of 
trees  from  which  this  point  derives  its  name  is  of  a  specie 
peculiar  to  Monterey  alone.  These  trees  present  a  curious 
sight.  Their  huge  gnarled  trunks  and  contorted  branches  give 
evidence  of  great  age,  while  the  grey  flimsy  hanging  moss 
adds  nothing  to  their  beauty.  Yet  the  close-knit  branches 
produce  such  a  wealth  of  shade  as  to  make  this  one  of  the 
most    delightful    of  drives. 

The  scenery  back  through  Monterey  to  Del  Monte  was  ex- 
traordinarily fresh  and  bright  on  this  particular  morning. — 
The  beautiful  blue-shaded  ocean  lay  constantly  before  us, 
while  the  life  giving  breeze  sharpened  our  appetites  for  the 
excellent  meal  which  awaited  us  on  our  return.  If  we  were 
to  remain  here  for  months  it  would  not  be  possible  to  ex- 
haust all  the  charming  promenades  and  splendid  environs  that 
this  lovely  place  aftords,  so  boundless  is  its  wealth  in  va- 
riety   of   scenery. 


Dear  Courier : — For  the  second  time  since  our  departure 
from  the  city  of  Brotherly  Love  it  became  necessary  to  divide 
the  Raymond  excursion  party.  The  first  division  took  place 
at  Los  Angeles,  where  it  was  necessary  for  small  parties  to 
leave  in  sections,  for  the  Yosemite  Valley;  the  second  and 
last,  at  Monterey,  for  the  purpose  of  more  comfortably  and 
conveniently  visiting  the  charming  sea-side  resort  of  Santa 
Cruz,  situated  directly  opposite  the  bay  and  town  of  Mon- 
terey. The  distance  via  Pajaro,  is  only  forty-eight  miles,  yet 
it  required  nearly  three  hours  to  get  there,  as  we  were  fre- 
quently left  standing  upon  a  side  track  until  accommodating 
freight  trains  chose  to  drag  us  along.  However,  the  ride  was 
by    no   means  monotonous.     The  azure   sky,   the    flower-carpeted 


48 

earth,  the  sparkling  billowy  ocean,  together  with  the  merry, 
congenial  party  in  whose  midst  it  was  ever  a  pleasure  to  be, 
caused  the  hours  to  roll  swiftly  by.  On  our  arrival  at  the 
station  we  found  numerous  carriages  awaiting  the  party,  and 
it  was  not  long  ere  we  were  seated  behind  the  highly-recom- 
mended pair,  Frank  and  Fanny,  on  our  way  to  the  Big 
Tree  Grove   at   Felton,   six   miles  distant. 

When  in  gracefully-poised  Los  A.ngeles,  we  thought  it  the 
most  charming  place  in  the  world.  Later,  San  Jose  was  re- 
garded as  the  spot  on  earth  expressly  desigried  by  nature  for 
the  repose  and  pleasure  of  humanity,  and,  finally,  with  the 
beauties  of  Del  Monte  so  freshly  mirrored  on  our  minds,  it 
did  seem  like  sacrilege  for  the  driver  of  these  two  "i^5,"  to 
insist  on  it,  that  we  had  been  wofully  deceived,  and  that  now 
only  had  we  reached  the  beau  ideal  of  a  place  in  which  to 
live.  Here  could  be  found  the  unadulterated  tonic  in  the 
air,  so  pure  and  bracing  in  its  effects,  which  snatches  vic- 
tims from  the  very  brink  of  the  grave,  for  was  not  he, 
himself,  a  fair  example  of  such  ?  Here  the  sky  is  bluer,  the 
flowers  more  radiantly  beautiful  and  in  more  dazzling  masses 
than  elsewhere;  the  mountains  arrayed  in  a  verdure  lustre  that 
words  cannot  paint ;  here  nature  has  done  and  is  constantly 
doing  so  much ;  here  the  picturesque  scenery  in  diversity  of 
form  and  richness  of  color  is  beyond  description.  All  these 
points,  and  more,  too,  did  our  worthy  Jehu  of  the  Benedict  tribe 
bring  torward  to  prove  his  assertions. 

The  road  to  the  grove  leads  through  a  magnificent  woods, 
and  at  times  winds  around  precipices  which  fall  sheer  three 
or  four  hundred  feet  to  the  bed  of  the  creek  below.  Expert 
driving  is  required  to  get  in  safety  around  the  frequent  and 
sharp  turns.  Sublime  landscapes  constantly  shift  before  you, 
achieving,  however,  their  grandest  triumph  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  home  of  the  Superintendent  of  the  Powder  Works,  (the 
latter  located  at  Santa  Cruz.)  The  mansion  nestles  upon  a 
well-rounded,  verdure-clad  hill  overlooking  a  deep  canon,  in 
which  are  found  all  the  essentials  for  a  perfect  tableau.  On 
one  side  of  this  chosen  sight  are  the  high  mountains;  on  the 
other  an  elevation  ujion  which  are  three  terraced  carriage 
roads  ;  while  in  the  canon  between,  a  meandering  stream  and 
a  railroad  complete  the  magnificent  picture.  Pursuing  our  route 
we  forded  the  St.  Lorenzo,  a  mountain  stream  abounding  in 
trout,  and  anon,  after  ascending  and  descending  numerous  steep 
hills,  we    were   astonished  to   behold    the    lolty   wonders  of  the 


49 

gigantic  Big  Tree  Grove — the  most  interesting  and  historical 
of  which  is  Gen.  Fremont,  whose  top  towers  far  into  the  clouds, 
The  base  of  this  tree  has  been  chiseled  out,  making  a  room  of 
wonderful  capacity,  in  which  a  shoemaker's  famil}^  consisting  of 
four  persons,  kept  house  for  one  whole  winter,  and  which  the 
youngest  member  of  the  family  can  claim  as  its  birthplace.  The 
Three  Sisters,  standing  near  by,  though  not  so  tall,  are  very 
graceful  and  majestic  in  appearance.  Jumbo  in  size  and  contour 
resembles  an  elephant.  Col.  IngersoU's  Cathedral  consists  of  nine 
monster  trees,  branched  out  of  an  enormous  trunk.  The  Giant, 
the  father  of  the  forest,  measures  eighty-four  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  has  a  bark  two  feet  in  thickness.  A  rustic  bower, 
called  the  Arcade,  built  on  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  comfortably 
seats  twent3^-four  persons.  Underneath  the  luxuriant  foliage  of 
these  forest  wonders  is  the  favorite  German  Sunday  resort  and 
picnic  grounds. 

On  our  way  back  to  Santa  Cruz  in  again  passing  through  that 
beautiful  forest  of  foliage-clothed  trees  of  endless  variety,  vandal 
liands  were  laid  upon  the  beautiful  blooming  azalias,  for  our 
benefit. 

At  2  p.  m.,  after  a  fresh  and  invigorating  meal  at  the 
Kittredge  House,  of  which  repast  the  strawberry  short-cake 
deserves  honorable  mention,  our  carriage  excursion  was  con- 
tinued. We  first  drove  through  the  thriving  little  town,  which 
boasts  of  six  thousand  inhabitants,  sixty  hotels,  and  is  capable 
of  attracting  from  three  to  four  thousand  visitors  annually,  and 
from  thence  out  along  the  noble  road  along  the  rugged  coast 
of  the  great  Pacific  Ocean,  where  its  monster  waves  have  eaten 
immense  fantastic  caverns,  extending  far  underneath  the  bed  of 
the  road,  making  beautifully-arched  natural  bridges.  With  the 
courteous  driver  as  guide,  we  were  unexpectedly  enabled  tc 
explore  two  of  these  subterranean  passages,  and  it  seemed 
almost  an  impossibility  to  realize  that  all  this  wonderful  exca- 
vation was  really  the  persistent  work   of  the  never-tiring  waves. 

The  beautiful  bathing  beach  was  the  last  point  of  interest 
visited.  This  stretches  a  considerable  distance  between  the 
tumbling  surf,  and  is  covered  with  the  finest  sand,  and  is  almost 
level.  Several  bathers  were  enjoying  the  luxuries  of  a  salt 
water  dip,  much  to  the  envy  of  our  errant  crowd.  Derby, 
said  to  possess  the  enviable  reputation  of  being  the  best 
swimmer    on   the   coast,  was  a  conspicuous  figure  on    the  beach. 


50 

Dear  Courier  : — The  day  after  our  return  from  Santa  Cruz 
to  Del  Monte  was  delightfully  spent  underneath  the  frowning 
pines  and  stately  oaks  of  this  smiling  blooming  Eden  —  in 
gathering  pebbles  upon  its  rough,  sandy  beach — and  finallj^  in 
gaining  bird's  eye  views  from  advantageous  elevations,  of  this 
magnificent  stretch  ot  green  sward,  with  its  noble  trees,  broad 
avenues,  and  its  profusion  of  thousands  of  gayly-colored 
blossoming  plants. 

From  the  hill  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake — which  bit 
of  wacer  was  not  at  its  best,  having  become  incorrigible,  bursting 
its  banks  and  sweeping  away  its  beauties — we  undoubtedly  had 
the  finest  view  of  the  day.  Tlie  eye  is  here  arrested  on  all  sides 
by  strange  and  extravagant  scenes.  The  peculiarly  rose  and  blue- 
tinted  veil  enveloping  the  dark  green  foliage  of  the  mountains 
made  a  phenomenal  background  to  the  overwhelming  landscape. 
We  wondered  not,  when  in  our  rambles  we  chanced  to  find 
the  talented  artist  of  the  party.  Miss  H.,  from  Boston,  endeav- 
oring to  depict  this  sublime  scene  upon  paper.  Before  our 
departure  for  San  Francisco  on  the  following  day,  we  enjoyed 
a  final  view  of  this  magnificent  spot,  so  resplendent  with 
natural  and  acquired  beauty,  from  the  observatory  of  the  hotel. 
It  was  only  here  that  we  fully  realized  and  recognized  the 
wonders  of  the  architectural  taste  and  study  of  that  skillful 
landscape  gardener,  Mr.  R.  Ulrich,  under  whose  careful  supervi- 
sion these  peaceful  grounds  are  speedily  developing  into  an 
unparalleled  site. 

The  evening  of  Saturday,  June  5th,  found  us  again  snuglj^ 
quartered  in  the  great  Palace  Hotel  ot  San  Francisco.  The 
remaining  few  days  of  our  sojourn  in  this  city  were  pleasantly 
spent  in  depositing  some  more  cash  in  China  Town,  in  visiting 
the  headquarters  of  the  Fire  Patrol,  where  every  day  at  twelve 
o'clock  an  interesting  and  remarkable  drill  of  a  few  seconds' 
duration  takes  place,  where  like  a  vivid  flash  of  lightning 
everything  is  done  so  quickly  that  you  see  nothing  —  and 
finally    in   bidding  our  friends  and  the  city   adieu. 

On  Wednesday,  June  9th,  we  took  our  last  sail  across  the 
beautiful  bay,  and  were  soon  comfortably  settled  in  our 
accustomed  places  in  the  Pullman  Sleepers,  ready  to  plunge 
through  the  snow-capped  mountains  of  the  almost  inaccessible 
Sierra   Nevada   mountains. 

For  a  distance  of  thirty-two   miles    from   Oakland,  as    far    as 


51 

Porta  Costa,  we  had  nothing  new  before  us,  as  we  tollowed 
the  same  route  over  which  we  had  approached  San  Francisco 
nearly  three  weeks  prior.  The  greater  part  of  this  time  was 
spent  by  the  mathematicians  of  the  party  in  the  unsuccessful 
attempt  to  solve  the  intricate  problem  in  addition,  which  had 
its  birth  at  the  desk  of  the  Palace  Hotel,  and  which  boldly 
confronted  all  those  of  the  party  on  the  adjustment  of  their 
bills,  who  had  left  the  beaten  path,  and  wandered  into  the 
Yosemite   Vallej''. 

On  arriving  at  the  Straits  of  Carquinez  the  train  was  divided 
into  two  sections  and  taken  across  the  water  on  the  mammoth 
ferry  boat  called  Solano,  said  to  be  the  largest  craft  of  the 
kind  in  the  world.  The  strait  is  about  a  mile  wide,  and  so 
complete  are  all  the  arrangements  that  no  delay  is  occasioned 
by  this  novel  mode  of  transportation.  The  government  military 
station  and  barracks  of  Benecia  is  directly  opposite  this  narrow 
passage  of  water.  After  riding  for  many  miles  through  a  wnde 
and  almost  dismal  stretch  of  low  flat  country,  the  valley 
becomes  gently  undulating,  and  begins  to  till  up  with  ripened 
grain  tields,  acres  of  grape  vines  under  cultivation,  and  numerous 
pear  and  api»le  orchards,  together  with  myriads  of  wild  flowers 
blending  their  magnificent  colors  most  lovingly  together. — 
Before  arriving  at  the  large  and  beautiful  city  of  Sacramento 
our  hearts  were  made  glad  by  the  pleasing  intelligence, 
received  by  telegram,  that  the  Capitol  would  be  illuminated, 
find  its  portals  thrown  open  for  the  benefit  of  the  Raymond 
Kxcursion  Party  ;  that  the  fine  military  band  of  the  city  would 
give  an  open-air  concert  in  the  park,  and  it  was  hoped  that 
all  would  avail  themselves  of  this  rare  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  seat  of  the  State  government  of  California.  A  rapturous 
applause  greeted  this  announcement.  At  six,  p.  m.,  we  reached 
the  city.  The  train,  with  its  hungry  freight,  had  scarcely 
ceased  its  motion  when  a  waiter  appeared  on  the  platform 
with  a  huge  cracked  dinner  bell  in  his  hand,  and  to  the 
ding-dong,  ding-dong  of  this  instrument  ot  torture,  which 
calls  for  noble  endurance  as  well  hungry  crowds,  we  wended  our 
way  into  the  Silver  Palace  Dining  Hall,  where  we  were  soon 
as  busy  as  bees  in  a  hive.  After  ibis  rqast  an  hour's  ride 
in  the  street  cars  gave  us  an  excellent  idea  of  its  wide, 
regular  streets,  so  beautifully  shaded  with  magnificent  trees 
with  their  mass  of  green  foliage,  its  numerous  fine  homes 
surrounded  with  yards  oi  blooming  flowers,  especially  note- 
worthy oi    which    were  the  huge  magnolias  ;  its   splendid  hotels, 


52 

its  fine  squares  and  churches.  We  lingered  at  the  Capitol 
until  the  evening  lengthened.  Ere  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun 
had  entirely  vanished,  we  ascended  the  dark  winding  stairway 
to  the  top  of  the  edifice,  to  the  melody  of  the  band,  which 
floated  through  the  open  windows.  What  a  beautiful  picture 
met  our  gaze  !  Who  could  accurately  describe  it  !  From  the 
cupola  of  this  $2,500,000  structure  the  city  unfolds  itself  in 
all   its   picturesque   grace   and    beauty. 

When  finally  the  shades  of  night  were  gently  repulsed  by 
the  pure  white  flame  of  the  electric  light,  the  matchless 
panorama  in  the  beautiful  Park  in  which  the  people  were 
moving  to  and  fro  en  masse,  vividly  suggested  a  scene  from  the 
"Arabian  Nights." 


LETTER     XlIX:- 

Dear  Courier  : — The  night  of  June  9th  was  spent  in  the 
Sleeper,  on  a  side  track,  at  the  station  of  the  capital  of 
California.  It  proved  a  most  melancholy  event.  The  Sacra- 
mento mosquitos  discovered  the  necessity  of  making  our  ac- 
quaintance. Suffice  it  to  record,  that  these  stinging  insects 
are  here  in  a  state  of  development  commensurate  with  the 
general   grandeur  of   the   Golden  State. 

The  heated  atmosphere  of  the  preceding  evening  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  raw  chillness  during  the  night  that  tampered 
seriously  with  the  delicate  vocal  chords  of  some  of  the 
Eastern  guests.  The  audacious  early  birds  of  the  party  made 
themselves  particularly  conspicuous  on  this  occasion,  by  aban- 
doning their  series  at  the  unreasonable  hour  of  3.45  a.  m., 
much  to  the  annoyance  of  the  less-spirited  ones,  who  by  this 
smothered  disturbance  tossed  uncomfortably  until  a  more  de- 
cided dawn  of  the  welcome  day  appeared.  After  breakfasting 
at  the  Silver  Palace  restaurant,  we  again  took  our  seats  in 
the  car,  which  during  this  interval  had  changed  from  a  bed- 
room into  a  parlor,  for  a  continuation  of  our  trip  on  the 
magnificent  Central  Pacific,  which  ploughs  its  course  so  tri- 
umphantly up  through  and  around  the  Sierras  to  the  height 
of  seven  thousand  and  seventeen  feet,  causing  wonder  and 
astonishment  at  every  turn  of  this  daring  piece  of  engineer- 
ing. A  short  distance  beyond  Sacramento  we  crossed  the 
American    river,   upon    whose   muddy   waters,   before     the    hour 


53 

of  noon  was  passed,  we  gazed  from  a  Ijeight  of  over  two 
thousand  feet.  The  snow-capped  mountains  soon  became  visi- 
ble, and  mining  villages,  with  poetical  and  soul-stirring  names 
such  as  Dutch  Flat,  Gold  Run,  Red  Dog,  Alta  and  the  like, 
are  rapidly  passed.  The  train  rushes  on,  frantically  clinging 
to  the  mountain  side  until  it  sweeps  upon  a  shelf  made  in 
this  vast  protuberance  and  rounds  the  picturesque  Cape  Horn. 
Here  we  had  before  us  one  of  the  grandest  of  all  nature's 
grand  displays,  which  was  fully  ap[)reciatcd  by  the  admiring 
group,  who  gathered  on  the  platform,  or  looked  hard  trom 
the  car  windows,  giving  evidence  of  their  admiration  in  ex- 
travagant terms.  "Is  it  not  equal  to  the  great  Yosemire?"  one 
ventured  to  say.  "Yes,"  chimed  the  weak  voice  of  one  of 
the  victims  of  the  Yosemite  stage  accident,  whose  frail  body 
was  still  writhing  in  pain  from  the  effects  of  the  disaster, 
'-'•and  we  can  see  and  enjoy  it  all  without  being  in  constant  fear  of 
having  our  necks  broken!''  To  the  left  the  perpendicular  moun- 
tains rose  thousands  of  feet  above  our  heads — to  the  right  a 
deep  canon,  bounded  by  bold  cliffs  sharply  defined  against 
the  blue  sky.  The  muddy  American  river  now  Ij'ing  over 
two  thousand  feet  below  was  dwarfed  into  a  diminutive  band. 
The  luxuriantly-clothed  trees,  appearing  like  shrubs  from  our 
elevated  position,  cast  an  ineffable  loveliness  of  green  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach.  From  this  point  on  to  the  Blue  Canon 
the   scenery   is   exceedingly    wild   and    rugged. 

At  one,  p.  m.,  a  good  substantial  dinner  was  had  at  the 
isolated  Blue  Canon  hotel,  where  the  quantity  and  qualitj^  of 
food  were  equally  commendable.  At  two,  p.  m.,  we  continued 
our  journey,  which  became  exceedingly  dull  and  uninteresting 
when  we  found  ourselves  imprisoned  in  the  costly  solid  snow 
sheds  which  protect  this  iron  pathway  from  its  winter  enemy 
— the  feathery  flake.  These  sheds  cover  over  forty  miles  of 
this  road,  and  cost  from  eight  to  twelve  thousand  dollars  per 
mile,  and,  where  masonry  was  necessary,  as  high  as  thirli/ 
thousand  per  mile !  They  are  complete  in  every  particular. 
At  a  moment's  warning  any  section  can  be  flooded  in  case  of 
fire.  But  a  passing  glimpse  was  ours  of  the  beautiful  and 
historical  Donner  Lake,  which  lies  so  peacefully  in  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  the  lofty  basins  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  moun- 
tains, and  which  could  a  terrible  tale  untold  of  the  cruel 
sufferings  of  the  snow-bound  Donner  party  in  the  year  1846, 
when  out  of  a  company  of  eighty-two  souls,  thirty-six  perished 
of    hunger  and  cold,  the  most  touching   incident    of    which    was 


54 

the  heroic  triumph  of  Mary,  the  wife  of  George  Donner,  whose 
gentle,  loving  heart  was  tried  beyond  endurance,  when  on  the 
arrival  of  the  rescuing  party  her  husband  was  found  too  weak 
and  sick  to  travel  over  the  mountains.  A  terrific  struggle 
between  a  wife's  love  and  a  mother's  love  was  hers.  Her  wifely 
instincts  triumphed;  although  urged  by  her  husband  and  friends 
to  go  with  her  clinging  little  ones,  and  being  almost  persuaded 
that  such  was  her  duty,  she  finally  resolved  that  the  strongest 
ties  were  those  which  bound  her  to  her  dying  husband.  With 
him  she  remained  in  this  gloomy  wilderness,  helpless  and  alone, 
until  death  released  both  from  their  sufferings.  Monuments  have 
been  reared  to  perpetuate  the  names  of  less  heroic  souls  than 
that   of  Mary  Donner! 

At  the  Summit  a  grand  winter  scene  presented  itself  Great 
mounds  of  snow  several  feet  high  lay  all  around.  A  vigorous 
snow-balling  was  indulged  in  by  the  fair  sex  of  the  party. — 
The  road  follows  the  beautiful  winding  Truckee  river  for 
more  than  fifty  miles.  Several  frightful-looking  freight  wrecks 
reminded  us  of  the  fact  that  not  all  danger  was  stored  away 
in  the  Yosemite  Valley.  Truckee,  the  last  of  the  Golden  State 
towns  through  which  we  passed,  will  ever  be  remembered  ibr 
its  mania  for  hotels  and  drinking  saloons.  We  soon  stepped 
into  the  neighboring  State  of  Nevada,  and  at  Reno  partook  of 
an   excellent   supper. 


LETTER    XIXl, 

Dear  Courier  : — On  the  evening  of  Juno  tenth,  at  9.20,  p. 
m.,  the  train  halted  sufliciently  long  at  AVadsworth,  Nevada, 
to  enable  us  to  pay  a  hasty  visit  to  its  beautifully  fitted-up 
library,  which  contains  a  fine  collection  of  choice  works.  A 
dozen  or  more  of  the  famous  Roger  groups  occupied  conspicu- 
ous places  it   this   far-away    literary   retreat. 

Elko,  our  breakfast  station,  we  reached  the  following  day, 
at  8,  p.  m.  We  saw  nothing  of  this,  the  county  seat  ot  Elko 
county,  although  it  is  said  to  be  quite  a  town,  with  no  less 
than  fifteen  hundred  people  claiming  it  as  their  home.  Be- 
fore we  finished  our  morning  meal,  a  motley  crowd  gathered 
around  the  station.  It  was  here  that  we  saw  the  last  of  the 
primitive  tribe,  and  a  heathenish,  repulsive-looking  delegation 
it   was.     One   of  the   squaws,  with   a  papoose,  expected   to  reap 


00 


a  fortune  by  asking  a  fee  for  a  look  at  her  little  brown  tot. 
In  this  she  failed,  and  in  her  endeavor  to  hide  it  from  the 
crowd,  she  gave  it  such  narrow  quarters  between  herself  and 
the  station,  that  the  little  one  rebelled,  sending  up  such  a 
wail,  that  a  retreat,  which  was  made  in  anger,  was  inevita- 
ble,  much   to   the   amusement    of  the   miserly    audience. 

Continuing  our  journey  through  Nevada,  we  rolled  smoothly 
and  rapidly  for  hours  without  anything  of  interest  gladdening 
the  eye.  Nothing  was  to  be  seen  save  sand,  with  here  and 
there  a  forlorn  and  desolate-looking  sage  brush.  We  Lad 
reached  the  great  sandy  desert,  which,  when  not  even  bright- 
ened by  the  familiar  sage,  looked  like  a  great  muddy  ocean. 
A  very  hungry  crowd  arrived  at  Terrace,  Utah,  at  1.50,  p. 
m.,  where  full  justice  was  done  to  a  late  dinner.  One  hour 
later   we  again    betook   ourselves    to   our  respective   places. 

As  if  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  the  sandy  barren  stretch 
of  land,  a  corner  of  the  great  calm  Salt  Lake,  glimmering 
like  crystal,  soon  came  ui.)on  the  scene.  Indeed,  ere  long,  na- 
ture became  exceedino-ly  lavish.  The  beautiful  blue  skv  as^ainst 
the  snow-capped  mountains,  with  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun 
drawing  myriads  of  colors  from  this  salty  body  of  water, 
transformed  the  desert  waste  into  such  a  scene  that  would 
delight  an  artist  to  reproduce.  At  8,  p.  m.,  supper  was  had 
at  Ogden.  Ere  we  left  this  city,  its  fine  open  s})ace 
around  the  station  was  beautifully  illuminated  with  the  Edi- 
son incandescent  lamps.  From  theuce  to  Salt  Lake  City,  we 
traveled  on  tlie  Denver  &  Rio  Grande.  A  prodigious  sui»ply 
of  mail  matter,  which  the  agent  of  the  party  received  at 
Ogden,  and  which  he  distiibuted  immediately  after  our  de- 
parture from  the  city,  cheered  the  hearts  of  the  favored 
ones.  On  we  sped  over  this  narrow  guage  road,  the  iron 
horse  fairly  flying  in  its  haste  to  reach  the  beautiful  City  of 
the  Mormons,  where  we  finally  arrived  a  few  hours  before 
midnight.  Omnibuses  were  drawn  up  in  a  line  to  convey  us 
to  the  hotel.  Into  these  the  tired,  sleepy  travelers  were 
hastily  packed,  but  a  party  of  sixteen  of  us  soon  became 
wide  awake,  when  the  discovery  w^as  made  that  we  were  in 
the  midst  of  danger.  A  balky  horse  was  determined  not  to 
allow  us  a  good-natured  entry  into  this,  the  city  ot  the 
Latter-Day  hJaints.  After  a  scene  which  beggars  description, 
which  nearly  developed  into  a  panic,  and  in  which  the  equi- 
librium of  the  sixteen  was  considerably  unbalanced,  the  un- 
gracious  driver    finally   opened     the    door     and     permitted     the 


56 

frightened  occupants  to  alight,  which  they  did  in  hot  haste. 
Naturally  the  commotion  aroused  the  neighborhood,  and  the 
hospitable  zeal  displayed  showed  that  we  had  fallen  into  the 
keeping  of  a  warm-hearted  people.  Atter  a  detention  of  a 
half  hour,  or  more,  during  which  interval  another  conveyance 
was  ordered,  we  reached  the  Continental  Hotel  in  safety. — 
This  house  is  said  to  be  the  best  and  finest  in  the  city. — 
Charity  forbids  us  from  saying  more  than  that  our  accom- 
modations were  emphatically  below  par,  and  that  memories  of 
the  Glen  Summit  repast  on  the  eve  of  the  day  of  our  depart- 
ure, thronged  vividly  before  us  during  our  entire  sojourn  at 
this  hotel. 

Salt  Lake  City,  the  Mecca  of  the  Mormons,  is  indeed 
unparalleled  for  situation.  It  lies  in  a  valley  surrounded  on 
the  north  and  east  by  the  Wahsatch  range  of  mountains,  the 
highest  peaks  of  which  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  and 
which  form  a  boundary  of  unsurpassed  grandeur.  The  streets 
are  wide  and  ornamented  with  the  most  majestic  shade  trees. 
The  houses  are  surrounded  by  yards  which  teem  with 
luxuriant  vegetation,  and  are  gay  with  flowers  of  every 
description.  A  peculiar  feature  of  the  city  is  its  water  supply. 
On  each  side  of  many  of  the  streets  flow  streams  of  pure  water, 
fresh  from  the  melting  snows  of  the  mountains,  and  which 
is  conveyed  hither  through  the  numerous  canons.  This  water 
is  used  for  drinking  purposes,  as  well  as  for  irrigation. — 
Among  the  most  noticeable  business  places  is  the  store  known 
as  the  "'Zion's  Co-operative  Mercantile  Institution,"  called  for 
convenience  "The  Co-op."  It  is  partly  owned  by  the  church, 
and  monopolizes  all  its  trade.  It  has  a  capital  of  one  million, 
and  an  income  of  six  millions.  It  has  been  in  successful 
operation   since   the   year   1868. 

Camp  Douglas,  said  to  be  "Uncle  Sam's"  most  beautiful 
Fort,  is  several  miles  from  the  city.  In  answer  to  the  query, 
"why  are  soldiers  stationed  there  .?"  we  received  the  following 
ironical  answer,  "Well,  first  they  were  placed  there  to  watch 
the  Indians ;  now  they   must   watch  the   Mormons  !" 


57 


Dear  Courier  : — Eighteen  miles  from  Salt  Lake  City  is  found 
that  great  deep  blue  body  of  water  known  as  the  Great  Salt 
Lake.  This  Dead  Sea  of  America  was  made  doubly  attractive 
on  the  afternoon  of  Saturday,  June  12th,  by  the  announcement 
that  the  celebrated  and  world-renowned  swimmer,  Gapt.  Paul 
Boynton,  would  give  one  of  his  famous  and  interesting  per- 
formances in  these  waters  at  the  station  of  Garfield,  at  six, 
p.  m.,  and  that  special  trains  would  be  run  thither  for  the 
benefit  of  the  public.  Many  of  our  party  took  advantage  of 
this  rare  opportunity,  and  those  who  were  anxious  for  a  dip 
in  this  said-to-be  the  finest  bathing  resort  in  the  world,  hied 
away  at  1.10,  p  m.  This  remarkable  lake,  about  seventy  miles 
long  and  thirty-five  wide,  is  situated  four  thousand  two  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Its  density  is  so  great, 
nearly  one-fourth  its  weight  being  pure  salt,  that  fish 
cannot  live  in  it,  and  it  is  considered  a  diflScult  feat  for  man 
to  dive  into  it.  The  station  of  Garfield  is  a  picturesque  affair; 
it  is  hemmed  in  on  one  side  by  a  steep  mountain.  It  consists 
of  a  huge  pavilion,  from  which  a  pier  extends  far  out  into  the 
lake,  at  the  farther  end  of  which  is  fastened  a  large  boat 
called  Gen.  Garfield.  This  is  used  simply  as  a  floating  restau- 
rant, where  meals  and  fluids  are  served  at  all  hours  of  ex- 
cursion days.  A  little  steam  tug,  tor  the  benefit  of  those  who 
desire  a  twenty-five-cent  sail  on  the  lake,  lay  anchored  at  some 
distance  from  the  shore.  To  it  was  attached  a  row  boat,  for 
the  purpose  of  conveying  passengers  through  the  shallow 
water  to  the  miniature  steamer.  This  craft,  with  two  sailors 
on  board,  became  the  centre  of  attraction  before  the  close  of 
day.  The  usually  peaceful  waters  of  this  great  inland  sea 
were  phenomenally  turbulent  on  this  particular  afternoon,  so 
much  so  that  it  was  considered  unsafe  for  any  one  to  venture 
in.  The  daring  Paul,  however,  ran  to  and  fro,  personally  at- 
tending to  the  innumerable  preliminaries  which  seemed  neces- 
sary for  his  six  o'clock  entertainment.  Every  train  from  Ogden 
and  Salt  Lake  City  brought  crowds  of  spectators  to  the  scene. 
But  it  soon  became  evident  that  a  terrific  wind  and  rain 
storm  would  play  sad  havoc  with  the  neatly-arranged  pro- 
gramme. Attention  was,  ere  long,  directed  to  the  dangerous 
situation  of  the  two  men  in  the  tug.  The  angry  waves  dashed 
mercilessly   against   the    frail    vessel.     The   row   boat   was   swept 


58 

ashore.  Excitement  was  raised  to  its  highest  pitch  when  the 
great  swimmer,  dressed  in  his  rubber  suit,  made  three  heroic, 
though  unsuccessful,  attempts  to  carry  a  rope  to  the  imperiled 
ones.  The  third  time  he  rode  over  two  huge  breakers,  and 
had  mounted  the  third,  when  it  dashed  him  back  with  relent- 
less fury.  He  was  picked  up  unconscious  and  nearly  strangled. 
The  imprisoned  men  were  not  rescued  until  4,  a.  m.,  when 
they  were  found  in  an  exhausted  condition.  There  being  no 
abatement  in  the  storm,  the  exhibition  was  postponed  until  the 
following  day.  Before  we  left  Garfield  it  began  to  rain,  which 
later  turned  into  snow,  and  by  the  time  we  reached  the  city 
it  poured  in  literal  torrents.  The  following  day  was  the  Sab- 
bath. The  sun  shone  brightly,  and  everything  was  refreshed 
and  invigorated  in  this  beautiful  Garden  city  of  the  West  by 
yesterday's  rain.  The  mountain  peaks,  too,  had  received  a 
new  coat  of  white,  and  the  soft  sky  was  set  aflame  with 
breadths  and    depths   ot    color. 

The  City  of  the  Saints  is  divided  into  twenty-one  wards, 
each  ward  being  provided  with  a  chapel  and  a  Bishop.  At 
an  early  hour  we  wended  our  way  to  the  Fourteenth  Ward 
Sunday  School.  Exercises  for  the  children  are  held  in  the  dif- 
ferent chapels  in  the  morning,  and  services  for  adults  in  the 
evening.  In  the  afternoon  young  and  old  go  to  the  Tabernacle. 
Bishop  Taylor,  the  shepherd  of  the  Fourteenth  ward  flock, 
was  unavoidably  absent  from  his  post,  on  this  occasion.  A 
sprightly  Mormon  dame  gave  the  desired  information,  "he  is 
not  here,  because  he  is  imprisoned  for  polygamy !"  Of  course 
his  absence  was  excusable.  The  Sunday  school  exercises  were 
exceedingly  interesting  and  the  order  exceptionally  good.  The 
session  usually  lasts  two  hours,  but  on  this  Sunday  it  was 
abreviated  a  half  hour  on  account  of  Teachers'  Meeting.  The 
programme  was  as  follows :  Singing,  (standing) ;  Prayer,  (sit- 
ting, the  person  offering  the  invocation  kneeling,  with  right 
hand  raised);  Singing,  (standing);  reading  of  minutes  of  pre- 
vious Sunday,  after  which  the  Superintendent  called  on  four 
young  men  to  distribute  the  communion.  One  of  the  number 
blessed  the  bread,  (all  sitting,  he  kneeling,)  after  which  it  was 
handed  around  in  silver  baskets,  old  and  young  partaking.  In 
like  manner  the  water  (no  wine)  was  passed  around  in  silver 
cups.  During  the  distribution  Mr.  Murdock,  Assistant  Super- 
intendent of  another  ward  school,  was  introduced,  who  made 
a  short  speech,  in  which  he  stated  that  his  object  in  visiting 
the  school   was  to    glean  points   which  might  be  of  benefit   for 


59 

his  school.  After  this  address  preparations  for  the  lesson  were 
made.  The  organist  played  a  march,  to  which  the  infant  and 
advanced  pupils  filed  into  adjoining  rooms.  The  intermediate 
scholars  remaining  formed  themselves  into  classes,  and  every- 
thing moved  on  regularly  and  in  order.  Our  visit  to  the  In- 
fant room  was  an  interesting  feature.  Sixty  little  buds  were 
here  assembled.  Their  answers  were  clear  and  remarkably  well 
modulated,  and  their  singing  excellent.  The  lady  superintendent 
took  special  pains  to  teach  them  a  lesson  on  parity.  We  also 
visited  a  class  of  young  men  taught  by  a  blind  old  man.  We 
were  too  late  for  the  lesson,  hut  one  of  the  members  of  the 
class  made  a  few  remarks,  evidently  with  the  intentions  of 
converting  some  of  the  party  to  Mormonism.  lie  tried  to  prove 
that  their  faith  was  founded  in  truth,  based  upon  the  teach- 
ings of  the  Old  Testament ;  that  as  toils,  privations  and  sacri- 
fices were  endured  by  their  predecessors,  so  they,  too,  must  now 
sufter  in  their  day.  Before  dismissal  all  were  again  assembled 
in  the  main  room,  when  after  singing  and  the  pronouncing  of 
the  benediction  they  left  the  room  to  the  music  of  a  pro- 
cessional  hymn. 


Dear  Courier : — Every  good  Mormon  man,  woman  and  child — 
whether  old  or  young,  rich  or  poor,  lame  or  blind,  together 
svith  the  ever-numerous  strangers  within  the  gates,  flock  to 
the  Tabernacle  every  Sunday  afternoon,  where  services  are  held 
at  precisely  2,  p.  m.  This  vast  building  is  situated  in  what 
is  known  as  Temple  Block,  in  the  city  of  the  Latter  day 
Saints.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  is  oval  in  form,  and 
its  roof,  which  is  seventy  feet  from  the  floor,  is  supported  by 
forty -six  sandstone  columns.  The  spaces  between  these  columns 
are  filled  with  large  windows  and  doorways.  A  broad  gallery 
encircles  nearly  the  entire  building.  Within  an  elevated  en- 
closure are  three  pulpits,  raised  several  feet  above  each  other; 
back  of  these,  high  up  against  the  wall,  is  an  imposing  organ, 
said  to  be  among  the  finest  in  the  States.  The  members  of 
the  choir  sit  in  two  wings,  in  the  rear  of  the  pulpits,  the 
the  men  occupying  one  side  and  the  women  the  other.  The 
music  is  under  splendid  management.  The  choir  consists  of 
nearly  one  hundred  members,  and  some  excellent  voices  are 
found   among   the   number.     The   dignitaries  of  the   church,   ac- 


60 

cording  to  rank,  occupy  the  seats  around  the  three  pulpits. 
This  great  amphitheatre  is  capable  of  seating  from  ten  to 
thirteen  thousand  people,  and  can  be  vacated  in  ten  seconds, 
so  complete  are  the  arrangements  for  a  hasty  exit.  The 
great  vaulted  ceiling  is  profusely  and  gaudily  decorated  with 
evergreens  and  flowers  of  colored  tissue  paper.  This  decorii- 
tion  was  put  up  in  the  year  1875,  when  a  grand  celebration 
of  the  24th  of  July  took  place — a  day  set  apart  in  com- 
memoration of  the  Pioneers,  and  one  much  honored  by  the 
Mormons. 

Sunday,  June  1 3th,  found  us  numbered  in  the  stream  which 
poured  into  this  extraordinary  building.  The  services  lasted 
until  four,  p.  m.  The  sacrament,  consisting  of  bread  and 
water,  is  administered  every  Sunday,  during  the  preaching, 
and  is  passed  to  old  and  young.  The  Priesthood  of  the  dif- 
ferent wards  take  turns  in  oflftciating  in  the  administration  of 
this  holy  ordinance.  On  this  particular  Sunday  it  fell  to  the 
duty  of  the  6th  ward  delegation.  As  no  less  than  four  or 
^Ye  thousand  souls  worship  here  every  Sunday,  it  requires 
the  entire  session  to  make  the  round.  The  meeting  was 
presided  over  by  High  Councelor  Wra.  Eddington.  The  choir 
sang: 

"Come,  thou  glorious    day  of   promise, 
Come  and    spread   thy  cheerful    ray." 

A  long  prayer  was  offered  by  Elder  Arthur  Stayner,  after 
which   the   choir    sang: 

"Ye   children   of    our    God, 
Ye   Saints   of    latter   days." 

Editor  John  Nicholson  was  then  called  upon  to  preach. 
There  being  a  fine  sprinkling  of  Gentiles  or  ^^-outsiders"  as 
they  are  called,  present,  this  Elder  took  advantage  of  the  ex- 
cellent opportunity  afforded  him  to  plead  his  own  case.  lie 
was  in  deep  waters.  Having  been  so  charitably  disposed  as 
to  undertake  the  responsibility  of  leading  two  wives  through 
the  vicissitudes  of  this  life,  he  was  thrown  into  prison,  and 
was  at  present  enjoying  only  a  temporary  release.  He  han- 
dled his  theme  in  an  eloquent  and  masterly  manner — spoke 
plainly  and  fearlessly  of  the  merciless  character  of  the  present 
crusade  against  the  Latter-Day  Saints.  For  nearly  two  hours 
he  brought  forward  the  weakest  and  most  trashy  of  argu- 
ments, disgusting  the  '^outsiders,''  and  putting  asleep  at  least 
one-third  of  these   poor   ignorant   and     degraded   people.      After 


the  singing  of  the  Anthem,  "0  Father,  Almighty,"  and 
prayer,  offered  by  Elder  Hamilton  G.  Park,  the  afternoon  ex- 
ercises  were   concluded. 

Near  by  the  Tabernacle  is  the  Assembly  House,  a  small  edi- 
fice used  for  winter  worship.  The  Endowment  House  and  Tem- 
ple are  in  the  same  enclosure.  The  horrors  and  indignities  of  the 
former  have  been  frequently  ventilated.  The  latter  is  a  sym- 
bolical edifice  which  is  nearing  completion.  Already  over  two 
millions  of  dollars  have  been  spent  on  it.  It  is  not  in  an 
unfinished  state  for  the  lack  of  funds,  but  for  the  reason  that 
forty  years  were  to  be  spent  in  its  construction.  In  two  more 
years  the  allotted  time  will  have  expired,  and  one  of  the  most 
wonderful  buildings  of  the  present  century  will  grace  the  city 
of  Salt  Lake.  It  will  require  more  than  a  million  of  dollars 
for  the  completio!)  of  the  unfinished  work.  Every  part  of  it 
is  to  be  of  stone — a  beautiful  granite  found  near  by,  in  the 
quarries  of  the  Cottonwood  Canon.  When  completed  it  will 
be  a  sumptuous  and  costly  edifice,  with  a  gra'nd  display  of 
magnificent   workmanship. 

Among  the  most  interesting  bui'.dings  of  the  City  are  the 
former  numerous  residences  of  Brighani  Young,  the  most  elab- 
orate of  which  is  the  "Amelia  Palace,"  which  the  prophet  was 
building  ior  his  favorite  wife  Amelia,  but  died  ere  its  comple- 
tion. President  Taylor  now  occupies  it.  In  the  houses  appro- 
priatel}'  called  the  Bee  Hive  and  Lion,  several  of  the  bereaved 
widows  of  the  divinely  (?)  appointed  leader  reside.  The  tomb 
of  the  prophet  is  an  astonishinglj^  modest  affair.  It  is  in  his 
private  burial  lot.  A  large  slab  of  marble  covers  the  grave, 
and   a   neat   high    railing   surrounds   it. 

I^ublicly  the  Mormons  are  a  very  social  people.  During  our 
short  sojourn  in  their  El  Dorado,  we  had  several  interesting 
conversations  with  devout  members  of  the  church,  and  found 
them  unquestionably  sincere  in  their  religious  beliei.  We  were 
assured  that  not  all  Mormons  were  polygamists  —  that  the 
church  only  tolerates  a  multiplicity  of  helpmates  when  the 
courageous  one  is  in  good  standing  and  possesses  enough  of 
this  world's  goods  to  justify  such  an  act,  (a  statement  emphat- 
ically contradicted  by  the  outsiders.)  Naturally  the  Mormon 
woman  is  anxious  to  get  married  ;  tor  her  religion  teaches  her 
that  the  gates  of  the  Joe  Smith  paradise,  which  she  is  longing 
and  hoping  to  enter,  will  remain  forever  barred  to  the  unmar- 
ried   of   her   sex, 

A  Mormon  spinster  is   consequently  a   rare  article. 


G2 

Dear  Courier: — With  the  usual  amount  of  shrieks  and 
puffs  and  preliminary  gasps  of  departure,  the  engine,  attached 
to  the  special  train  consisting  of  seven  narrow-guage  palace 
cars,  in  which  the  members  of  the  Raymond  party  were 
more  luxuriantly  than  comfortably  ensconced,  steamed  out 
from  the  station  of  Salt  Lake  City  on  the  morning  of  Mon- 
day, June  14th.  Nothing  could  have  been  more  delightful 
than  the  weather  on  this  particular  morning.  Mother  Nature 
wore  a  fairer  guise  than  ever.  The  capacious  valley  turned 
rosy  in  the  steadily-increasing  sunlight.  The  white  -  crowned 
summits  of  the  mountains  climbed  up  into  the  azure  heights. 
Added  to  this  tenderly  -  magnificent  landscape  was  the  ever- 
shifting  cloud-scenery,  which  was  watched  with  unabated  in- 
terest by  the  inmates  of  the  car  Aztec,  and  only  abandoned 
when  the  broad  open  country,  with  its  cultivated  fields, 
green  pastures  and  thrifty-looking  Mormon  settlements  came 
rapidly  upon  tlie  scene.  Our  course  lay  along  the  winding 
yellow  waters  of  the  river  Jordan,  which  connects  the  Utah 
with  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  The  waters-  of  the  former  are 
fresh,  and  are  three  hundred  feet  higher  than  those  of  the 
latter.  After  leaving  Lehi,  a  village  wnth  an  abundance  of 
foilage,  and  wholly  built  of  sun-dried  brick,  the  placid  waters 
of  Utah  Lake  came  in  full  view,  and  we  passed  through 
miles  of  rich  farm  land,  admirably  tilled,  proving  that  the 
Mormons  are  not  found  lacking  in  agricultural  pursuits.  Near 
the  railroad  a  narrow  wagon  road,  showing  much  use,  may 
be  seen  the  greater  part  of  the  way  through  the  fertile  val- 
ley of  the  Jordan.  At  11,  a.  m.,  we  reached  Provo,  where 
we  found  dinner  awaiting  us.  Provo  is  the  most  flourishing 
and  important  town  on  Utah  Lake.  Beyond  this  point  the 
rugged  and  savage  scenery  of  the  Wahsatch  range  bewilders 
the  beholder.  The  train  climbs  eastward  across  the  rocky 
hills,  through  the  Spanish  Fork  Canon,  thence  to  soldier 
Summit,  where  an  elevation  of  7,464  feet  is  reached.  The 
high  mountains  were  gay  with  trees  and  shrubbery  of  various 
shades  of  green,  while  the  earth,  too,  when  not  carpeted 
with  fresh  turf,  showed  various  hues  of  red,  making  a  va- 
riety of  gorgeous  colors.  At  Red  Narrows  the  view  is  mag- 
nificent. The  wonderful  conglomeration  of  rocks,  pushing  out 
in  all  directions,  show  evidence  of  having  been  the  bed  of  a 
mighty   stream.     The   cliffs   begin  to    rise  higher    and     higher — 


63 

the  narrow  stream  of  the  South  Fork  of  the  Price  River 
continues  its  noisy  course  along  the  road.  The  sun  shining 
and  tlie  rain  falling  at  intervals,  or  in  concert,  gave  a  won- 
derful freshness  and  brilliancy  to  the  enchanted  scene.  The 
road  winds  and  bends  in  the  most  ingenious  manner,  bring- 
ing new  and  interesting  views  at  every  turn.  At  4:15,  p.  m., 
the  iron  horse  moved  slowly  and  majestically  up  to  the  two 
remarkable  columns,  those  guardians  of  Castle  Canon,  known 
as  Castle  Gate.  The  train  halted  five  minutes,  to  give  us  an 
opportunity  of  examining  this  truly  inspiring  and  marvelous 
work  of  nature.  The  scenery  in  Castle  Canon  assumes  a  bold 
and  imposing  aspect:  huge  clitfs,  rent  and  jagged  as  if  by  an 
earthquake,  resemble  hanging  terraces,  vast  castles,  gigantic 
forts,  towers  and  pinnacles.  The  precipitous  rock,  like  im- 
mense walls  towering  skyward,  are  ornamented  with  impresses 
like  that  of  trees  and  leaves,  on  their  smooth  bright  sides. — 
Sublime  and  delicate  landscapes  present  themselves  and  retire, 
making  the  picture  wonderously  beautiful.  At  Lower  Price 
Crossing,  where  we  had  our  evening  meal,  wo  found  a  box 
of  minerals  from  the  neighboring  mines,  generously  filled  for 
the  benefit  of  the  party.  A  fair  specimen  of  the  mining  re- 
gion, liberally  saturated  with  benzine^  entertained  the  crowd 
with  the  usual  amount  of  western  stereotyped  sociability. — 
When  the  morrow's  light  dawned  upon  us,  we  had  left  the 
land  of  the  Mormons  behind  us,  and  were  hemmed  in  by  the 
one-and- two-thousand  feet  high  walls  of  the  Black  Canon  of 
the  Gunnison,  in  the  picturesque  State  ot  Colorado.  We 
dashed  along  between  the  solid,  close-shutting  crags,  from 
whose  sides  now  and  then  a  miniature  waterfall  playfully 
gushed,  until  we  reached  that  wonder  of  all  pinnacles,  the 
Currecanti  Needle — an  unbroken  shaft  fifteen  hundred  feet 
high,  situated  in  the  verj^  heart  of  the  Black  Canon.  Fif- 
teen minutes  were  here  allowed  us,  in  order  to  give  an  ap- 
proaching freight  train  tlie  right  of  way.  On  leaving  this 
point  the  beautiful  leap  of  water,  named  Chepeta  Falls, 
sparkling  brilliantly  in  the  early  morning  light,  received  a 
well-deserved  share  of  admiration.  Breakfast,  at  the  Black 
Canon  Hotel,  at  Cimarron,  on  the  banks  of  the  Cimarron 
creek,  was  finally  in  order.  After  our  departure  from  this 
place  it  became  very  evident  that  the  '•'pestilential  nuisances'^ 
were  not  all  "on  the  list."  The  autograph  fever  taking  a  firm 
hold  on  one  of  the  vigilant  ones,  soon  became  alarmingly 
epidemical.     The   stubs^   remaining   in    the    long    narrow    Russia 


G4 

Leather  ticket  books,  with  which  each  passenger  was  sup- 
plied, were  ingeniously  wrought  into  an  album,  making  it  a 
doubly-interesting  souvenir. 

At  Gunnison  we  halted  a  few  minutes.  This  flourishing 
raining  city  is  built  in  a  circle,  with  a  large  plain  between 
it  atid  the  station.  The  La  Vita  House,  an  imposing  brick 
building,  is  a  prominent  feature.  The  beautiful  orange,  pink 
and  purple  colored  Mariposa  flower,  so  familiar  in  the  Yosemite 
Valley,  again  suddenly  appeared  upon  the  floral  stage,  and  was 
welcomed  with  delight.  At  Sargent,  where  we  had  dinner,  we 
were  invited  to  one  of  the  neighboring  houses  to  see  a  snake 
Cactus,  said  to  be  a  rare  specimen  of  the  Cacti  family.  It 
had  been  found  several  Sundays  previous  by  the  happy  pos- 
sessor, while   crossing   the   prairies. 


Dear  Courier: — Proceeding  on  our  journey  from  Sargent,  Col., 
Tuesday  afternoon,  June  lo,  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  in  good  earnest.  The  train  was  again  di- 
vided into  two  sections,  to  which  were  attached  ponderous  en- 
gines, which  glided  easily  and  rapidly  around  the  numerous 
curves  of  this  wild  mountain  route,  the  audacious  grades  of 
which  are  something  almost  beyond  belief,  some  of  them 
being  from  two  hundred  and  eleven  to  two  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  to  the  mile.  After  passing  through  seven  miles  ot  snow 
sheds  we  reached  Marshall  Pass  at  an  elevation  of  10,820  feet. 
To  acquire  this  height  the  tracks  winds,  twines  and  curves 
over  this  stupendous  range  in  the  most  intricate  and  bewil- 
dering manner.  At  one  point  it  actually  climbs  six  miles 
around  to  gain  a  position,  only  a  few  rods  in  a  direct  line 
from  its  former  position.  The  wild  mountain  scenery  stirs 
the  beholder  with  awe.  The  towering  bald  head  of  Mount 
Ouray,  which  has  an  elevation  of  14,055  feet,  is  readily  dis- 
tinguished from  the  numerous  projecting  peaks  which  surround 
it,  and  the  beautiful  snowy  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Blanca,  with 
marvelous  grandeur  way  off  in  the  wondrously  clear  distance, 
are  again  gracefully  shifted  upon  the  scene.  After  riding  for 
miles  through  the  loveliest  of  ever-changing  mountain  scenery, 
which  almost  paralyzes  the  beholder  with  its  awful  grandeur, 
the    train     descends    the    Poncho    Pass,   at    the  foot   of    which 


65 

rests  the  picturesque  little  village  of  Poncho  Springs,  and  soon 
steams  into  the  brisk  town  of  Salida.  On  our  arrival  here 
we  found  a  huge  white  trained  bear  attracting  the  attention 
of  the  bystanders,  but  this  performance  soon  terminated  most 
ignominiously,  much  to  the  chagrin  of  the  master  of  ceremo- 
nies, and  the  amusement  of  the  audience.  During  the  graceful 
(?)  dancing  of  the  polka  an  inquisitive  little  canine  stepped 
upon  bruin's  coda,  which  cccasioned  a  scene  impossible  to  por- 
tray. 

After  supper  at  the  Monte  Cristo  Hotel  we  took  a  walk 
across  the  Arkansas  River,  up  to  the  upper  end  of  the  prin- 
cipal street  ot  this  prettily-hemmed-in  place.  This  town  was 
formerly  known  as  Lower  Arkansas.  It  is  rapidly  developing 
into  a  place  of  importance.  The  weather  is  one  of  its  pecu- 
liarities, its  winters  being  phenomenally  mild.  On  our  return 
to  the  iiotel  we  learned  that  the  most  important  personage 
of  the  State  ot  Colorado,  politically  speaking,  had  arrived,  viz  : 
Gov.  Eaton.  After  securing  a  glimpse  of  this  portly  magis- 
trate, we  turned  back  to  our  car,  where  we  found  the  porter 
busily  engaged  in  arranging  the  interior  for  our  night's  lodg- 
ing. After  a  six  o'clock  breakfast  the  following  morning  we 
left  Salida,  and  soon  enjoyed  a  mingling  of  bold  and  pictur- 
esque scenes.  For  nearly  one  hundred  miles  the  Arkansas 
river  breaks  along  the  side  of  the  road,  now  placid,  then  a 
large  roaring,  foaming,  swelling  stream.  The  scenery  in  the 
ten-mile  gorge,  known  as  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas, 
and  the  Royal  gorge,  eclipses  in  grandeur,  all  hitherto  seen. 
High  above  us  rose  immense  red  granite  rocks,  attaining  the 
wonderful  height  of  two  thousand  feet,  ornamented  in  a  few 
favored  places  by  trees  and  shrubs.  The  skill  of  the  engineer, 
as  displayed  in  this  gorge,  is  truly  miraculous.  At  one  place 
where  there  is  room  for  only  the  river,  a  bridge  is  ingeni- 
ously hwng^  the  strong  supports  of  which  are  stretched  across 
the  chasm.  After  leaving  this  abyss  we  soon  enter  Canon 
City,  noted  for  its  neatly  walled-up  soda  springs  and  its 
large  State  penitentiary.  Between  here  and  South  Pueblo,  curi- 
ous and  numerous  ridges  of  rocks  are  seen.  The  weather  be- 
came intensely  warm  as  we  neared  South  Pueblo.  After  dinner, 
which  we  had  at  the  station  dining  rooms  of  this  city,  we 
were  glad  to  hasten  away  to  the  cool  and  inviting  retreat  of 
Manitou,  where  we  arrived  early  in  the  evening  of  the  same 
day.  This  renowned  summer  resort  has  been  christened  the 
Saratoga   of    the   West.      It   is    noted    for   the    medicinal    quali- 


ties  of  its  numerous  springs,  and  is  surrounded  by  some  of  the 
most  mngnificent  scenery  in  America.  It  rests  under  the  snow- 
crowned  summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  at  an  elevation  of  6,297  feet. 
A  playful,  boiling  little  stream,  called  the  Fontaine  qui-Bouille, 
gayly  washes  its  way  through  the  rocky  town.  It  already  con- 
sists of  eight  hundred  inhibitants,  and  has  three  churches — 
the  Episcopal,  Congregational  and  Catholic — to  keep  the  flock 
from   going   astray 

During  our  three  days'  sojourn  here,  a  "provided"  carriage 
drive  took  us  to  the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  the  Ute  Pass, 
Rainbow  Falls,  and  the  Mineral  Springs.  The  Garden  of  the 
Gods  is  owned  by  a  Mr.  Potter,  from  Chicago.  It  contains 
a  wonderful  collection  of  interesting  and  amusing  natural 
rock  ornaments,  the  most  peculiar  of  which  are  the  red  sand 
stone  columns  at  the  entrance,  which  are  three  hundred  and 
eighty  feet  high.  Among  the  attractions  wrought  by  the 
action  of  the  wind  and  rain,  are  the  Tower  of  Babel,  a  Ca- 
thedral three  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high,  a  seal,  a  Polar 
bear,  mushrooms  and  toad-stools,  Balance  rock,  profile  of  Ben 
Butler,  Siamese  Twins,  Ant  Eater,  Lady  of  the  Garder,  Echo 
Cave,  (where  a  most  remarkable  and  astonishing  echo  can  be 
awakened,)  heads  of  animals,  such  as  the  buffalo,  lion  and 
deer,  and  a  host  of  others  too  numerous  to  mention.  From 
here  our  drive  took  us  to  Glen  Eyrie,  where  we  saw  the 
eagles'  nests  ;  also,  the  isolated  home  of  Gen.  Potter,  which 
consists  of  a  magnificent  red  sand  stone  mansion,  with  corre- 
sponding stables,  situated  in  a  perfect  wilderness ;  save  the 
beautiful  green  lawn,  sprinkled  with  flower  beds,  immediately 
in  front  of  the  villa,  a  melancholy  air  of  desolation  pervades 
the   whole. 

The  next  morning,  June  18,  was  profitably  employed  in 
visiting  Colorado  Springs,  five  miles  distance.  Our  course 
took  us  through  the  once-destined-to-be-capital-of-the-State,  but 
now  merely    a    deserted    country   village   of    Colorado   City. 

Colorado  Springs,  which  place  by  the  way  received  its 
name  from  the  springs  found  at  Manitou,  is,  on  the  whole, 
the  most  beautifully-planned  and  handsomely-built  town  it 
has  ever  been  our  lot  to  visit.  It  fairly  sparkles  with  clean- 
liness, culture  and  refinement.  Some  of  the  avenues  are  quite 
Parisian-like  in  appearance,  having  double  carriage  ways  sep- 
arated by  rows  of  beautiful  trees.  It  abounds  in  handsome 
churches,  school  houses,  private  residences  and  hotels.  Horse- 
back  riding    and     carriage-driving   are     extravagantly     indulged 


67 

in  by  the  old  and  young  of  this  highly-adorned  town.  The 
home  of  Helen  Hunt,  the  authoress,  was  one  of  interest 
to  our  party.  In  a  cottage  peeping  out  from  luxuriant  foli- 
age and  partly-concealed  by  neglected  shrubbery,  this  talented 
lady  spent  the  last  days  of  her  life.  Tier  monument  is  the 
yonder  towering  Cheyenne  Mountain,  where  according  to  her 
desire,  she   was    buried. 

The  country  between  Colorado  Springs  and  Manitou  is  highly 
cultivated.  Many  large  and  beautiful  ranches  may  be  seen, 
while   the   scenery    all    around    is   grand   beyond    description. 


Dear  Courier: — As  the  mountain-trail  climbing  passion  which 
once  dwelt  in  our  bosom  had  become  extinct  since  our  Yo- 
Semite  Yalley  experiences,  we  were  content  to  leave  the  sum- 
mit of  Tike's  Peak  all  unbereft  of  its  mystery  and  grandeur, 
and  confine  our  wanderings  in  the  quiet  valley,  with  that 
snow-crowned  ''beacon  of  '59"  our  constant  attendant.  It 
was  no  disappointment  to  us,  when  we  learned  from  a  relia- 
able  source,  that  the  trail  was  in  an  exceedingly  rough  and 
dangerous  condition — so  much  so  that  it  was  deemed  imprudent 
for  the  ladies  ot  the  party  to  attempt  the  ascent.  Only  one 
member  of  our  car  family  possessed  enough  enterprise  and  vigor 
to  scale  the  rocky  heights.  His  dejected  appearance,  together 
with  his  grutf,  "I  would  not  do  it  again  for  twenty-five  dol- 
lars !"  were  proof  positive  oi  a   hard    day's  struggle. 

The  illusive  power  of  the  pure  Colorado  atmosphere  is  start- 
ling and  remarkable.  In  the  clear  sky  it  is  impossible  to  real- 
ize distances ;  only  the  perpetual  snow  lodged  upon  the  sur- 
rounding peaks  indicate  the  great  distance  and  height  which 
separate   them    from    the   valley. 

At  eight  o'clock  on  the  bright  and  poetic  morning  of 
June  19th,  we  were  borne  away  from  the  cool  and  inviting 
retreai  of  Manitou,  which  was  left  with  universal  regret,  and 
hastened  on  to  Denver,  the  "Queen  City  of  the  Plains,"  where 
we  arrived  at  precisely  twelve  o'clock.  This  four  hours'  journey 
in  the  stillest  and  sweetest  of  summer  mornings,  was  a  mem- 
orable one.  The  "sleepers"  were  abandoned  for  the  comfort- 
able   reclining    chair    cars,  an    innovation    duly    appreciated    by 


68 

one   and   all.      The   entire    scenery    of   this    road    is    interesting 
and   grand.     The   numerous    foothills,    bedecked   with   the   rarest 
of    wild    flowers,  conspicuous    among    which    was   the   beautiful 
white    poppy,    were   full   of   extravagant    and  pleasant   surprises. 
At    Divide,   where   a   gem   of  water  known   as   Palmer   Lake   is 
tound,   we    were    privileged    to     spend     a    few     minutes.      This 
cold,   clear    lake    has   great   attractiveness   as    a   summer   resort. 
Owing     to     its     elevation,   (7,544    feet,)   the    temperature   in    its 
vicinity   is   remarkably    cool    and    pleasant   during    the   warmest 
days   of  the   hot   season.      The  ornamental   little   depot    received 
its   share     of    superlative     expressions   of    admiration.      Denver, 
the    capital     of    this     mountainous    State,  the     city     of    magic 
growth,   is  finely    locuted   on   the   great   plains,   with   the  Rocky 
mountains   twelve    miles  distance   at   their   nearest   point,  yet  at 
times   having   the   appearance   of    being     within     easy     walking 
distance.     A    three-hours'  carriage     ride,   with     an     exceedingly 
communicative   ex-cow   boy   driver,   gave    us   a   fair   idea   of  this 
progressive  metropolis.     The   view   from    Capitol    Hill    is  marvel- 
ously   grand — the   ever-changing  panoran)a    of    exquisite     moun- 
tain  scenery,    is   forever   spread     before     the     occupants     of    the 
palatial    residences  which     beautify   this     once-barren     hill,   por- 
tions  of     which,    not    so    many    years   ago,   could    be   purchased 
for     a    mere    song,    now    bring    fabulous    prices.      The     elegant 
wide   streets   are    lined    on   both    sides,   for    many    blocks,   witli 
magnificent     private  residences,  many    of   which    are   surrounded 
with   extensive   lawns,     which    are     so     neatly    and     artistically 
mown   that  tiieir     rcvsemblance   to    green    plush     is   wonderfully 
perfect.     There   is   an    absence,  however,  of    luxuriant   shrubbery 
and    profusion    of  flower  beds,  which   fill    the  yards   of  the  cities 
farther   west.     Many    ot     the   public     buildings    are     models    of 
architecture,  the   most   prominent  being  the   Tabor  Grand  Opera 
House,  which    is   considered   the  finest  structure  of  its    kind   in 
America.     Six    hundred  thousand  dollars   were   spent    in   its  con- 
struction.     It   is    complete  in   every    respect.       We     saw    it     in 
all  its  splendor  on  the  occasion  of  a  minstrel  performance.     The 
court   house,  constructed  at   a   cost  of    three   hundred    and    thir- 
ty-seven   thousand   dollars,  is    a     notewortfiy    edifice.      We  were 
very  courteously   conducted   through    the    building,  and    enjoyed 
a  rare  view  of  the  city  from  its  dome. 

In  the  smelting  w^orks  in  the  immediate  vicinity  an  enor- 
mous amount  of  mountain  traffic  is  done.  We  visited  the 
Argo,  which  is  the  larger  and  more  interesting  of  the  two. 
We   found    foreign  element    largely    employed     in     these    works, 


C9 

which  made  our  visit  exceedingly  unprofitable,  as  we  were 
unaccompanied   by    a   guide. 

On  Sunday,  June  20th,  the  St.  John's  Cathedral  was  filled 
to  overflowing  to  hear  the  Eev.  Phillips  Brooks,  of  Trinity 
church,  Boston.  As  this  noted  divine  was  one  of  the  Ray- 
mond excursionists,  it  had  the  tendency  of  gathering  together 
nearly  the  entire  band  of  travelers.  The  speaker's  subject  was, 
"Learning  to  Know  People,"  founded  upon  the  twenty-second 
verse  of  the  fourteenth  chapter  of  St.  John.  The  music  on 
this  occasion  was  of  the  highest  order,  and  was  most  excellently 
rendered. 

An  excursion  up  Clear  Creek  Canon  to  Idaho  Springs,  George- 
town and  Silver  Plume,  occupied  the  entire  day  of  the  follow- 
ing Tuesday.  The  railway  through  this  prolific  silver  region  is 
so  tortuous  that  the  most  wonderful  engine-spinning  on  record 
is  here  indulged  in.  The  road  crosses  a?id  recrosses  itself  at 
will.  At  one  point  it  may  be  seen  jive  times.  The  mountain 
scenery  is  wonderfully  wild  and  rugged.  Here  savage  Nature 
reigns  supreme.  Engulfed  amidst  lofty  and  magnificent  rock- 
work  in  park-like  reservations,  with  very  little  room  to  spread 
themselves,  are  found  thrifty  mining  towns,  bearing  an  aspect, 
however,  far  from  inviting.  Beyond  Georgetown  the  road  forms 
a  complete  loop,  the  line  crossing  itself  by  a  bridge  ninety 
feet  high.  The  view  of  the  valley  from  this  lofty  point  is 
equaled  by  few,  if  any,  in  the  world.  The  visit  into  the  silver 
mine,  at  Brown ville,  was  a  decided  failure,  for  the  majority  of 
the  party,  owing  to  its  muddy  condition  and  careful ly-stored- 
away  rubbers  in  trunks  and  valises  at  the  station  of  Denver 
some  fifty  miles  distant. 

Among  these  grandlj^  -  conspicuous  groups  of  mountains 
nothing  is  more  touchingly  sad  than  are  the  forlorn  and  des- 
olate-looking graveyards  which  are  occasionally  shifted  upon  the 
scene.  On  our  return  to  Georgetown  we  took  dinner  at  the 
Barton  House,  after  which  we  zig-zagged  back  to  Denver,  where 
supper  was   had   at   six,  p.  m..  at    the   station    dining   room. 


70 

Dear  Courier  : — The  sleeper  Ogalalla  was  the  one  destined  to 
carry  us  out  of  the  State  of  Colorado  —  that  "Land  of  Prom- 
ise," through  Nebraska  —  to  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa.  Our  exit 
from  the  city  of  Denver  was  made  at  seven,  p.  m.,  on  the 
evening  of  June  22d,  amidst  such  a  brilliancy,  variety  and 
gorgeousness  of  sky  scenery  as  is  rarely  witnessed,  and  never 
excelled.  The  bewilderiui^  splendor  of  the  sunset  assured  us 
that  Old  Sol  was  desperately  determined  to  give  us  a  lasting 
impression  of  his  wondrous  beautj^  in  this  remarkably  pure, 
clear  and  healthy  atmosphere. 

On  the  following  morning  we  found  ourselves  in  the  Valley 
ot  the  Platte,  in  the  neighboring  State  of  Nebraska.  Kearney 
Junction  was  the  first  place  noted  after  our  morning  ablution. 
A  rich  flood  of  sunshine  deluged  the  broad  expanse  of  highly - 
cultivated  land,  variegating  the  scene  with  unprecedented  bril- 
liancy. The  gorgeous  atmospheric  tints,  mingling  with  the 
fleecy  clouds,  produced  an  aspect  of  more  than  ordinary  attnic- 
tiveness.  A  few  hours  more  in  the  pleasant  glow  of  this 
sparkling  sunshiny  morning  brought  us  to  our  breakfast  station. 
Grand  Island.  After  this  meal  the  discovery  was  made  that  a 
leger-dermist  dwelt  among  us.  In  a  mysterious  manner  an 
onion  was  transferred  into  the  Ogalalla.  This  bulb,  it  behooves 
us  to  explain,  not  only  caused  much  merriment,  but  was 
doomed  to  become  ot   historical    interest. 

Our  route  led  us  through  the  prolific  corn-yielding  districts  of 
the  ".State  of  the  Plains."  Extensive  cribs  filled  with  thousands 
ot  bushels  of  last  year's  growth  skirted  the  road.  This  storage 
had  a  demoralizins:  tendency  on  the  most  aged  member  of  our 
party,  who  threatened  to  tell  his  friends  wonderful  tales  ol  this 
western  agricultural  paradise  of  ours.  For,  whispered  he  in  con- 
fidence, "can  I  not  truthfully  say,  that  1  saw  one  thousand 
bushels  of  corn  raised  on  less  than   an    acre  T' 

At  Omaha  our  family  chain  lost  its  first  link.  After  an 
acquaintance,  such  a  one  as  is  gained  within  the  narrow  lim- 
its of  a  car  ;  after  an  imprisonment  of  days  and  nights  in  one 
stretch,  a  break  in  a  congenial  company  is  a  sad  event.  Such, 
therefore,  was  the  case  when  two  of  our  most  respected  fel- 
low-passengers left  us  at  Omaha  to  prolong  their  sojourn  among 
relatives.  Cro.«sing  the  Missouri  river  w^e  entered  the  State  of 
Iowa,  where  dinner  was  had  at  Council  Blufts.  At  three,  p. 
m.,   we     continued    our    journey,   not,   however,  before    a     most 


71 

amusing  and  interesting  strike  was  indulged  in  by  the  unpopular 
clique  hailing  from  Boston.  Accidentally  (for  it  conld  not  have 
been  otherwise,)  when  a  change  of  sleepers  took  place,  one  of 
inferior  pattern  and  workmanship  was  shitted  into  the  numer- 
ical position  belonging  to  this  aristocratic  train.  A  quiet  in- 
dignation meeting  resulted  in  the  piling  of  all  their  hand  bag- 
gage on  the  platform  of  the  station,  and  a  declaration  made 
in  genuine  Yankee  venacular,  that  the  journey  would  not  be 
continued  by  them — unless  a  car  more  in  keepiufj  with  their 
style  and  station  would  be  forthcoming.  The  pale  countenance 
and  knit  brows  of  the  agent  plainly  indicated  that  this  time, 
at  least,  he  was  unequally  matched  ;  consequently  the  com- 
plainants gained  the  day,  and  the  wheels  once  more  rolled 
smoothly  around,  on  through  the  undulating  prairie  land, 
reaching  the  Capital  De  Moines  at  nine,  p  m.  The  following 
day  our  meals  were  sumptuously  furnished  us  in  the  dining 
car.  Beautiful  bills  of  fare,  napkins  and  floweis  were  presented 
us,  making  interesting  souvenirs  of  the  occasion.  Betore  the 
close  of  day,  our  number  was  again  lessoned.  Several  more  of 
those  who  had  endeared  themselves  to  us  branched  off  for  a 
more  extended  visit,  while  we  that  remained  hastened  on 
through  Illinois,  Indiana,  Michigan  and  Canada,  halting  at 
Niagara  Falls,  in  the  State  of  New  York,  on  Friday,  June 
25tb,  where  we  breakfasted  at  the  International  Hotel.  Only 
a  portion  of  the  day  was  allotted  us  to  view  this,  the  sub- 
limest  spectacle  in  the  world.  A  copious  shower,  prior  to  our 
arrival,  occasioned  a   peculiar   vivifying  and    refreshing   effect. 

Through  the  generosity  of  the  New  York  Legislature  the 
grounds  adjacent  to  the  mighty  cataract  have  been  included 
in  a  public  park,  hence  every  portion  of  the  American  side 
can  be  enjoyed  free  from  the  petty  impositions  which  formerly 
annoyed  the  visitor.  On  Goat  Island  we  had  a  satisfactory 
view  of  the  Canadian  Falls;  from  here  the  descent  to  the 
Cave  of  the  Winds  is  made.  This  cave  is  a  place  back  and 
under  the  Falls.  An  immense  rock  stretching  out  above  where 
the  waters  dash  over  makes  it  possible  to  walk  beneath 
with  this  mighty  rush  of  w^ater  overhead.  After  a  walk  to  the 
islands  of  Luna  and  the  Three  Sisters,  we  were  ready  to  enjoy 
what  had  been  purposely  reserved  for  last,  that  grandest  of 
all  views,  the  one  gained  from  Prospect  Park.  We  will  not 
attempt  to  describe  what  we  deem  utterly  indescribable.  This 
roaring,  seething,  plunging,  tremendous  rush  of  water  must  be 
seen    to    be    appreciated.      The    view    from   above  was   sufficient 


72 

for  our  party  of  limited  time ;  but  way  down  one  hundred 
and  sixty  feet  were  four  adventurous  ones,  who  were  enjoying 
this  magnificence  from  below.  Protected  by  yellow  rubber 
suits,  they  resembled  seals  as  they  clambered  out  on  the 
rocks.  The  "Maid  of  the  Mist,"  a  small  steamer,  fearlessly 
plies  the  river,  enabling  the  visitor  to  gain  good  views  of 
both   sides   of  this    stupendous  work  of  Nature. 

After  a  general  interchange  of  compliments  and  regrets  at 
parting,  we  left  the  "Bay  State"  excursionists,  and  in  the  midst 
of  a  tremendous  thunder  storm,  were  whirled  in  omnibuses 
to  the  station,  where  we  soon  took  the  train,  and  before 
another  day  had  sunk  into  oblivion,  our  journey  was  ended 
where  it  had  begun — at  the  Ninth  and  Green  streets  station, 
Philadelphia,  where  the  final  separation  took  place.  After  a 
most  friendly  leave-taking,  we  again  drifted  apart,  returning 
to  the  care  of  those  who  had  waited  patiently  and  grown 
anxious  for  us  during  our  absence.  We  had  traversed  our 
country  from  shore  to  shore,  and  traveled  over  ten  thousand 
miles,  during   these  59  memorable  days  of   '86. 

Now,  kind  reader,  we,  too,  must  part — since  nothing  more 
remains  to  be  told, — yes,  one  thought  more, — let  us  breathe  it 
softly  : 

'^Be  it  ever  so  humble,  there  is  no  place  like  Home  !" 

ZiTELLA. 


